Yet another no start problem here for you guys. Im stumped on what this could be. Ok, my truck is a 1989 P/U 22re 4wd and i ran it throughout the summer and fall with no problems. Once the colder weather approached the truck would crank and crank but not fire, this was in the morning btw. In the afternoon once the weather would warm up it would fire without a problem. Now that it is winter time and there is no more warming up during the day the truck will not start. I've searched and searched and even used 4crawler's write-up, which was helpful for testing everything, but i just have no idea. Everything tested out to what 4crawler's write-up said but the fuel system is not pressurizing. Voltage on the whole system is about 0.152 V with a fully charged battery. I checked the computer wiring thoroughly and found three wires with the "green monster" and fixed those thinking that would have something to do with it but no. If anyone has heard about or had this problem, information would be greatly appreciated.

 

does it still turn over , when you turn the key?

 

i have heard of the 22re having grounding issues. i would definately replace your grounds(and while your at it replace them with large gauge wires) one to the frame, one to the body, one to the motor and one to the intake.(any others?) then i would ground all of those parts to eachother as well.


but that might not be it now that im thinking about your actual problem. what WOULD make it start in warmer weather and not in the cold...

 

My '88 4Runner had exactly the same problem. Initially harder to start on cold mornings and eventually got to where it would crank forever and never start until it got warmer outside. I took it by my dealer during the winter and told them to keep it over night, then try and start it in the AM when it was really cold outside. They charged me $60 and claimed to have fixed it by adjusting a few things, but other than relieving me of $60 they didn't do anything for the problem. I started to peruse my Haynes manual and came across the "cold start injector". Sounded like a possible candidate, but didn't know how to test it and new ones are expensive.....so it was off to EBay for about $15.
Solved everything immediately! Someone may be able to tell you how to test yours. Had I known for sure that my cold start injector was bad I would have purchased a new one.

 

cold start injector

 

so the cold start injector itself and not the timer switch because i was thinking those two are my last option. thank you all for the responses ill try it out tomorrow and give you an update. Btw, GeminiFire, that's exactly what i thought the problem was and i cleaned and replaced all of the grounds and that still didnt do it. PETDOC ive found the cold start injector procedure and since this is the last thing i havent tested we shall see if the battle can be won. thanks again everyone.

 

I just replaced the cold start injector itself. I figured I could afford to be wrong for $15. Wish I had know someone with the same engine that would have allowed me to try their cold start injector. Then I would have gone to http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/198...art_valve.html and spent the big bucks for an OEM replacement. (As stated in description of cold start injector the picture in link is not accurate.)
One I bought on EBay has lasted several years and currently has functioned well into the single digits on the thermometer. Just wish those Canucks would keep their winter blasts north of the border.

 

lol, did it help? is your problem solved or are we still thinking?

 

petdoc, you need to get your 60 bucks back

 

Worse yet, went to same dealer complaining of ticking noise coming from front wheels. Noise sped up and slowed down with car speed. Can't remember how much the charge was, but they said they fixed it by adjusting brakes. As I pulled out of the dealership I hear the ticking noise. I drove home pulled out my Haynes and started looking at wheels, brakes etc... until I saw "anti-rattle springs". The next weekend I pulled my front wheels and the anti-rattle springs on both sides were broken. Ordered replacements, easy fix. Vowed to start working on my own 4Runner.

 

well yo need to drive back to toyota and punch that service rep in the face.. and get your money plus 20% for a RESTOCKING FEE

 

dude, its just like going threw a drivethrough,

make sure everything you ordered is correct, or in this case, make sure the noise you went in to get fixed isnt there.

like yota-pickup said, you need to go back and open up a can of whoop-ass and demand your free fries!!!

 

maybe go to the novelity store and dropp a few stink bombs off, by the service counter.. good way.. to get them back..

 

Man i would have gone back the instant I reheard that noise.