hey guys I'm trying to lift my runner on the cheap.My buddy gave me some downey 26m torsion bars after he went sas and i bought some cheap blocks for the rear. My question is , Will the new torsion bars provide any more lift or should I add a ball joint spacer in the mix? I thought bj spacers hard on steering components? Thanks folks

 

You can use the t-bars to crank more lift in to the front but all you will end up with, besides a little lift is stiffer suspension.

In my opinion, BJ spacers should be used only for more travel, not lift, by relaxing the bars back down to stock height when the spacers are installed. However, BJ spacers and a differential drop will lessen the angles the front CV shafts operate in and that could allow you to crank in some lift.

 

look around on craigslist..you'll find somebody sellin a bracket lift for CHEAP!!! lol.i see em allll the time dude

and check on here..and other places for people goin for SAS lol

 

Yep. Bought my ProComp Stage II lift for 400 on craigslist from a guy doing a solid-axle swap. I got most of the whole front end too- spindles, hubs, tie rods....

 

no one does that stuff in helena so i can never frind deals like that

 

maybe search elsewhere? I mean, if you can find a lift 200-300-500 miles away, the gasoline spent is still gonna be less than buying a new kit.

 

I like the BJ spacers I put on. And I think the truck rides much better leaving the torsion bars alone after the install. I've found with the greater up travel bridge junctures are much smoother. I lowered my front end back down to be even with the back end and it's just not as cushy. I'm about to fix that with f150 leaves in the rear and bring the t-bars back up to the 'stock' setting.

 

Those 26mm torsion bars will only be good to you if you install a winch and winch bumper to help with the extra weight....

 

all i did was put BJ spacers and OME 901 coils. didnt touch the torsion bars. if you do use bigger coils and bj spacers, MAKE SURE you get longer shocks.

 

thanks guys

 

let me start out by sayin there is no such thing as a cheap lift if you cut corners on your suspension it could get you killed or kill or hurt someone else. when you lift save your money and do it right first off there are several threads on here about downey tbars cracking in half so i would look around on here with the SEARCH button. next off rough country makes cheap lift kits i bought mine for 600 bucks not inculding the 75 or so for shipping. do it right the first time and you will not regret it. i mean its a toyota!! it will never let you down if you take care of it

 

well if he can find a used one..that would be ok, preferable a stage 2 or one of the like.. make sure if you go n look at one it has STAMPED spindle spacers and not the retarded tubular ones, they break...and ifs bracing is a plus but dont have to have it..just 2 bars that bolt to the new drop bracket and to 2 of your tranny cross member bolts

 

i agree used ones are fine its the whole i just want to lift my truck or runner to lift it and i dont have the cash to do it so ill go cheap on it and when i get teh money i make it higher. no offense to the OP

 

I checked CL last night and found about 5 different lift kits for sale in or around my city lol.
One even came with the front Diff/CV'S, so he must have just SAS'ed

 

the best , cheap lift, is to do springs in the rear, add an inch with some heavier torsion bars, like you have, but the number 1 thing? run some 31 inch tires; you don't have to change anything else. I did springs/shocks, add a leafs, torsion bars, blocks.
parts total was about 400 bucks. when I go from my current stock tires, which are just under 28 inches, and go to 31's, that will give an automatic 3 plus inches of lift.

 

aww man i wish i had 300 bucks cuz i would call that guy in spokane about his lift kit

 

usually bigger tires lift 1/2 the tire size difference. for instance...going 28 to 31 is a 3" increase, netting around 1 1/2" of lift.

 

Link to the spokane add? I can't seem to find it.

 

http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/1534686930.html

 

wrong.
that will give you 1.5 inches of lift.
Heres why.
As tire size increases, it increases 1/2" in both directions for every 1" in tire size increase.
For example: A 30" tire is only 1" shorter than a 31" tire, but a 31" tire only sits 1/2" more off the ground.
It goes 1/2" in both directions, so in terms of lift, a tire would have to be 6" taller than your previous tire to gain 3" of desired axle-lift.