rings wont seat
#1
rings wont seat
i just rebuilt my 22r, 40 over, i did the honing, new rings and pistons fron lc engineering, i have been driving it for about 500 miles and it still burns oil from blowby, do i need to wait more miles for the seat? whats the average mileage for the rings to seat? thanks in advance for all the help :-}
#4
yeah that was all good, when i hit the gas at idle it puffs smoke, no present smoke while idling though, and no consistent smoke at highway speed. i only honed it untill all the glazing was gone, the piston and rings i got are http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...C-73AEBC0DA032
#5
Am I missing something.
You honed the glazing off your cylinders and installed .040 over pistons and rings??
That would require the cylinders to be milled to match the pistons.
Or was it milled to 40 over before you did the rering.
If your cylinders were worn to the point that 40 over pistons and rings would fit. Than the cylinders are way out of round also.
let me know if I am missing something, I have done rerings before, but it was only to put back the stock pistons and new rings.
You honed the glazing off your cylinders and installed .040 over pistons and rings??
That would require the cylinders to be milled to match the pistons.
Or was it milled to 40 over before you did the rering.
If your cylinders were worn to the point that 40 over pistons and rings would fit. Than the cylinders are way out of round also.
let me know if I am missing something, I have done rerings before, but it was only to put back the stock pistons and new rings.
#6
I bought the truck with 20,000 miles on the engine. Bored .40 with Keith black pistons. 2000 miles later blew a hole through piston one due to pre detonation. Absolutly no damage to cylender walls or valves. I replaced all pistons and rings. Of course I first honed the cylenderS and measured it with the proper tools. Then cleaned walls very throughoutly. Thanks again apreciate the replys
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#9
I understand now.
Are you sure each piston was at TDC for compression when you did the test? not trying to hen pick you work, just those numbers are a little low for a fresh rebuild at 40 over. I am by no means an engine builder. but you should be up towards 160# for each cylinder.
If you have a harbor freight around you can pick up their leak down tester for about $30.00. That will tell you more than compression testing.
If you end up tearing it down again, check out "total seal rings" I think I am going to give them a try when I rebuild this one.
Hope you get it figured out.
Are you sure each piston was at TDC for compression when you did the test? not trying to hen pick you work, just those numbers are a little low for a fresh rebuild at 40 over. I am by no means an engine builder. but you should be up towards 160# for each cylinder.
If you have a harbor freight around you can pick up their leak down tester for about $30.00. That will tell you more than compression testing.
If you end up tearing it down again, check out "total seal rings" I think I am going to give them a try when I rebuild this one.
Hope you get it figured out.
#10
thats the rings iam using now, maybe some how the oil is being burned from the top end?
it is visible when i repetitively hit the gas and in that 500 miles i have added like 1.5 quarts lol its crazy if iam at idle i cannot see no smoke.
it is visible when i repetitively hit the gas and in that 500 miles i have added like 1.5 quarts lol its crazy if iam at idle i cannot see no smoke.
#11
I dont think I would worry with it much for another 500 miles or so. What you can do for the 500 mile is run 93 in it, and drive it like you stole it. If the rings dont seat then you have an issue.
Did you oil the cylinders with a lot of oil when you put it together, or just a light coat. Makes a difference. Every engine I have seen that the builder slopped oil in the cylinders as thick as they could has burned oil. I have not had the balls to do it. But my father in law was a GM dealer mech for years. He has told me that the best way to get an engine to seal and rings to seat is to not put any oil on the cylinder walls. And just enough to put a light coat on the rings as you put them in, just enough to ensure they slide down to the crank. Then once it starts hold it at about 2500 rpms for about 5 min. then do your tuning, and then drive it hard for about a half hour.
Did you oil the cylinders with a lot of oil when you put it together, or just a light coat. Makes a difference. Every engine I have seen that the builder slopped oil in the cylinders as thick as they could has burned oil. I have not had the balls to do it. But my father in law was a GM dealer mech for years. He has told me that the best way to get an engine to seal and rings to seat is to not put any oil on the cylinder walls. And just enough to put a light coat on the rings as you put them in, just enough to ensure they slide down to the crank. Then once it starts hold it at about 2500 rpms for about 5 min. then do your tuning, and then drive it hard for about a half hour.
Last edited by TinMan; Dec 15, 2009 at 01:43 AM.
#12
When I was breaking in my engine, I was told that high throttle helps seat rings. So you've got to find that balance where you aren't at high rpms, but have the gas pushed way in but also not be lugging the engine. So something like going up a mountain pass is a good thing.
#14
well it was irritating me so i pulled the head, #4 cylinder has scores running up and down, maybe broken oil ring? am i going to have to have it punched to .60? its at .40 right now. man i dont want to buy new pistons again.
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