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3VZE Power Steering problem

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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 06:40 AM
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3VZE Power Steering problem

I have a '92 3vze 4x4 toyota and the power steering pump is using fluid. I checked all around for leaks and it is not leaking from around the body of the pump, nor any other spots externally.

However, I have noticed that every time I have filled it with fluid, then drive it for a bit, the engine smokes REALLY bad and has a diesel smell to it. I investigated farther and pulled the two vacuum lines from the intake area, that attached to the bottom of the PS pump. I was letting it idle and checked for vacuum from teh intake and the one towards the rear of the engine compartment is sucking air and the other seams to do nothing. While I was getting ready to hook the hoses back up, I noticed one of the hoses had fluid seeping out of it. THAT WOULD EXPLAIN MY DIESEL SMELL! I think what's happening is the fluid is getting pass the valve located on the bottom of the pump and seeping through one of the vacuum lines and getting in the engine, then in turn, makes the truck smoke REALLY bad out the tailpipe.

Does anyone know what's going on here, or has experienced the same problem? Is the little valve (is that the air control valve??) on the bottom of the pump bad? Is my pump bad?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Thank you,
Mike
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 07:04 AM
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That valve is the air control valve. All it does is up the RPM's when you turn the steering wheel to prevent the vehicle from stalling out. Mine broke when I swapped out PS pumps so I just plugged it with a bolt.

Is the line cracked?

Last edited by BoostinChick; Oct 14, 2009 at 07:47 AM.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 07:21 AM
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No where do I see that either of the two vacuum lines are cracked or split. Regardless, neither line should have fluid in it, correct? This just has me boggled. Can a person just buy the idle air valve on the bottom of the PS pump, or does it come with the pump when you purchase a new one? (It looks like I can un-screw it from the pump)

Thank you for clarifying on which valve this is. Maybe I'll run to the parts store and see what one costs. I guess I could always just plug them up as you did.

Thanks,
Mike

Last edited by mswift; Oct 14, 2009 at 07:24 AM.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 07:45 AM
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From: Abington, PA
Originally Posted by mswift
No where do I see that either of the two vacuum lines are cracked or split. Regardless, neither line should have fluid in it, correct? This just has me boggled. Can a person just buy the idle air valve on the bottom of the PS pump, or does it come with the pump when you purchase a new one? (It looks like I can un-screw it from the pump)

Thank you for clarifying on which valve this is. Maybe I'll run to the parts store and see what one costs. I guess I could always just plug them up as you did.

Thanks,
Mike
Where I got mine (Advanced Auto) I had to switch over a couple of pieces and it did not include the air control valve. IIRC, I shopped for one and they are ~$100 on rockauto.com for a new one. My assumption was those two lines coming off of it are vac lines to push the motor open/closed when needed to put load on the PS.

Only reason I know....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-valve-148525/

Last edited by BoostinChick; Oct 14, 2009 at 07:48 AM.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 08:01 AM
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Thanks for the info on your previous thread. At $100 a pop for one of them valves, I think I'll plug it off.

You've been very helpful, thank you!
Mike
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 08:15 AM
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From: Abington, PA
Originally Posted by mswift
Thanks for the info on your previous thread. At $100 a pop for one of them valves, I think I'll plug it off.

You've been very helpful, thank you!
Mike
Just make sure whatever you use is brass or you use some sort of thread sealant. If not it will just leak from that "plug". I have been running without it for over a year now with no ill affects.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 08:24 AM
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Will do... thanks!
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 08:29 AM
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From: Abington, PA
Just FYI for anyone who wants to replace it.

Part# 1763016040 - Air cntrl valve

My local Yota dealer has it for $81.32
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 12:22 PM
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When my Power Steering Pump was leaking, I replaced the whole thing. The Autozone part included the idle-up valve. The current Autozone price (take your pump in to be sure it's the right one; they don't guarantee their photo accuracy) is $56.99.

I'm sure that the Toyota part is "better," but putting an $81 part on a 15-year-old pump is not always such a good idea.
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Old Oct 14, 2009 | 01:15 PM
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I got that air valve for $5 at a local bone yard.
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 07:06 AM
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From: Abington, PA
Originally Posted by scope103
When my Power Steering Pump was leaking, I replaced the whole thing. The Autozone part included the idle-up valve. The current Autozone price (take your pump in to be sure it's the right one; they don't guarantee their photo accuracy) is $56.99.

I'm sure that the Toyota part is "better," but putting an $81 part on a 15-year-old pump is not always such a good idea.
You're lucky, when I bought my refurbed pump it didn't come with anything. I had to swap everything over.
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 09:35 AM
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Update: I have removed the idle up valve, installed a brass plug in its place, as well as plugged the two vacuum lines at the intake and have not had a problem since. The truck idles just fine when making a sharper turn. It's ready for the woods and Elk Camp!

Mike
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 10:30 AM
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Good to hear!
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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PS pumps on those heavy 2nd gens are kind of notorious for going out. (Ok at least for ~TC's~ truck they are.) We finally took the radiator out of tippy which had a tranny cooler and then hooked up that cooler to his PS pump and so far so good. Now a small note, we had to trash the toyota PS pump and got the Vato Zone one which has a warranty, but since they aren't as good as Toyota we have gone through 3. But they were all free. We are hoping the PS cooler will lengthen the life of this one!
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 10:46 AM
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Not to highjack the thread but PLEASE HELP!!!!


just rebuilt power steering pump with toyota seal kit and in accordance with toyota service manual....

thing is the last step about the rear housing and the snap ring isnt super clear or easy. spent much time playing with it and finally found a configuration that seemed acceptable.
installed everything, added fluid, started engine...

ran ok for a min or so... then noise....then all the fluid escaped the pump at once via the rear housing which blew out.

took it all apart. cleaned everything and repaired any damage. everything is ready for assembly but i would like some better guidance. thanks.
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 10:52 AM
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Are you rtving the seal???
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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no rtv involved anywhere from what i see in the book and also i saw no evidence of rtv from prior installation. rear housing plate has o-ring then snap ring and another cover plate of some sort..... im stumped.
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 10:58 AM
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Hmmm I remember using RTV on our 93 PS pump. I might be wrong. In fact I am known to be wrong.
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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lol. ok good to know. but one thing i know is that i have never used rtv in any hydraulic system ive ever been exposed too..... dang i wish the fsm had better info on this snap ring installation....
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 11:06 AM
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I'll ask ~TC~ about this when I see him tonight. He might know.
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