Questions From a Super Nooob..
#1
Questions From a Super Nooob..
Hello All. I'm 16 and have been planning to buy a toyota since i was a wee boy (still am lol) Going to be buying one any time now. it will probably be a Pickup from the early 90's. i've been reading around this site for months now reading and reading and reading. and have decided that the surgery i will preform to this truck will be a SAS. i've looked at the IFS lift kits and it seems like they are not worry free and will constantly send problems my way. i know Sas is hard, but i can handle it...but i haave a few questions for you experts before i get too deep into this
First: How's the whole Hy-Steer kit work out? never seems to be covered in detail? hard? easy?
Second: I live in New Hampshire..and yeah everything around here rusts like a champion, will i have trouble finding an axle that isn't going to be too rusty to use?. i noticed most of you guys weren't from salty areas.
Third: Will i have to worry about the stock Birfield Joints breaking? i plan on rebuilding the front axle and parts.
Thanks guys, any feedback is wanted even the "Your Crazy"
-Mike.

First: How's the whole Hy-Steer kit work out? never seems to be covered in detail? hard? easy?
Second: I live in New Hampshire..and yeah everything around here rusts like a champion, will i have trouble finding an axle that isn't going to be too rusty to use?. i noticed most of you guys weren't from salty areas.
Third: Will i have to worry about the stock Birfield Joints breaking? i plan on rebuilding the front axle and parts.
Thanks guys, any feedback is wanted even the "Your Crazy"
-Mike.
#5
hysteer is easy buy the kit and torque it down, take it to a aligment shop or do a drive way aligment with a tape measure. the tricky part is the ifs box location you need to get that box as far forward as possible even taking out some body mounts to get er in there search on mounting the ifs box for hysteer. use those beefy plates to box er in too.
rust idk man if you have problems order a diamond axle or have some one ship you one from the west coast.
yes birfeilds break if you run a locker up front with large tires. typically you can get away with not upgrading if your easy on the lines. if your an animal and like to get your torque on then upgrade those suckers. I woudl suggest getting at least one spare birf and be familiar on how to dissamble and assemble them and if you keep breaking birfs then upgrade.
anything else?
rust idk man if you have problems order a diamond axle or have some one ship you one from the west coast.
yes birfeilds break if you run a locker up front with large tires. typically you can get away with not upgrading if your easy on the lines. if your an animal and like to get your torque on then upgrade those suckers. I woudl suggest getting at least one spare birf and be familiar on how to dissamble and assemble them and if you keep breaking birfs then upgrade.
anything else?
#6
hysteer is easy buy the kit and torque it down, take it to a aligment shop or do a drive way aligment with a tape measure. the tricky part is the ifs box location you need to get that box as far forward as possible even taking out some body mounts to get er in there search on mounting the ifs box for hysteer. use those beefy plates to box er in too.
rust idk man if you have problems order a diamond axle or have some one ship you one from the west coast.
yes birfeilds break if you run a locker up front with large tires. typically you can get away with not upgrading if your easy on the lines. if your an animal and like to get your torque on then upgrade those suckers. I woudl suggest getting at least one spare birf and be familiar on how to dissamble and assemble them and if you keep breaking birfs then upgrade.
anything else?
rust idk man if you have problems order a diamond axle or have some one ship you one from the west coast.
yes birfeilds break if you run a locker up front with large tires. typically you can get away with not upgrading if your easy on the lines. if your an animal and like to get your torque on then upgrade those suckers. I woudl suggest getting at least one spare birf and be familiar on how to dissamble and assemble them and if you keep breaking birfs then upgrade.
anything else?
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#9
yes you need to do something up front. i paid $60 for the steel made mine out of square recever stock I also eliminated the double cardigan and went for a single u-joint out of a rear shaft. I did this after breaking mine.
If you want a balanced HD 10" slip talk to tom woods dont know how much it will cost.
If you want a balanced HD 10" slip talk to tom woods dont know how much it will cost.
#16
I have never done 40mph in 4wd max is 10mph if i can go faster than 10 then 2wd works just fine. the front driveshaft does not turn while in 2wd.
also I would like to add I have around 18" of slip
Like I said in the prevoius post I ran a long slip up front until i broke it climbing on rocks.
Actually logan aka bigblue you were their when i smacked my HD square drive shaft into some rocks at tahuya and watched the u-joints explode.
Now if that was a chimpsy .95 wall it would of broke and cause carnage like this again:

also I would like to add I have around 18" of slip
Like I said in the prevoius post I ran a long slip up front until i broke it climbing on rocks.
Actually logan aka bigblue you were their when i smacked my HD square drive shaft into some rocks at tahuya and watched the u-joints explode.
Now if that was a chimpsy .95 wall it would of broke and cause carnage like this again:

Last edited by Plumbrbob; Aug 9, 2009 at 08:13 PM.
#18
.95 Wall? LOL! It will certainly be the biggest and baddest part on your truck. I would think you would break EVERYTHING else before destroying that shaft! 
Make your own if you do very little to some on road 4wd driving. IE, I had my shafts made because I drive in the snow a lot, up to 50 mph with the hubs locked in, so a balanced drive shaft is key. If you are just wheeling with it, DEFINITELY make your own.
Mine are .125 wall, and it cost me 225 for both shafts, re tubed, balanced, with tax, at a local shop.

Make your own if you do very little to some on road 4wd driving. IE, I had my shafts made because I drive in the snow a lot, up to 50 mph with the hubs locked in, so a balanced drive shaft is key. If you are just wheeling with it, DEFINITELY make your own.
Mine are .125 wall, and it cost me 225 for both shafts, re tubed, balanced, with tax, at a local shop.
#19
.95 Wall? LOL! It will certainly be the biggest and baddest part on your truck. I would think you would break EVERYTHING else before destroying that shaft! 
Make your own if you do very little to some on road 4wd driving. IE, I had my shafts made because I drive in the snow a lot, up to 50 miles per hour with the hubs locked in, so a balanced drive shaft is key. If you are just wheeling with it, DEFINITELY make your own.
Mine are .125 wall, and it cost me 225 for both shafts, re tubed, balanced, with tax, at a local shop.

Make your own if you do very little to some on road 4wd driving. IE, I had my shafts made because I drive in the snow a lot, up to 50 miles per hour with the hubs locked in, so a balanced drive shaft is key. If you are just wheeling with it, DEFINITELY make your own.
Mine are .125 wall, and it cost me 225 for both shafts, re tubed, balanced, with tax, at a local shop.






