2nd gen., increase rear articulation
#1
2nd gen., increase rear articulation
Well since the 3rd gens have a thread about what they can do to get more articulation for their rears why cant we?!? So here it is in all of its glory the official thread for us 2nd geners to make a bible of how to get awsome flex out of our rear ends.
One idea I read about in the 3rd gen thread is sine the driveshafts hit the gas tank in there and our rigs that getting a 1 or 2in. body lift and moving the tank up, would that work very well to help solve our problems? Also then mabe you wouldnt have to extend the filler nozzle for the tank? Tell me if im wrong and add!
Thanks
One idea I read about in the 3rd gen thread is sine the driveshafts hit the gas tank in there and our rigs that getting a 1 or 2in. body lift and moving the tank up, would that work very well to help solve our problems? Also then mabe you wouldnt have to extend the filler nozzle for the tank? Tell me if im wrong and add!
Thanks
#2
Best bet on raising the tank would be with a bodylift and I think that a little raising and a spot on panhard drop would completely solve the problem.
One gentleman from Arizona stuck it out back with a 3" bodylift, but I would like to keep the rear as light as possible, which does not seem to be a plan that would be consistent with that.
Things you will need, or could need to really flex the rear:
-Rancho 5009 or similar shock
-Panhard drop or raise of appropriate length
-Control arms with heims/Johnny Joints
-Custom gas tank skid
I think that the tank can be raised slightly without big reworkings, I hope to try this over Christmas when I have fiddle time and can chat with my welder. Other than that, it is pretty bolt and go.
One gentleman from Arizona stuck it out back with a 3" bodylift, but I would like to keep the rear as light as possible, which does not seem to be a plan that would be consistent with that.
Things you will need, or could need to really flex the rear:
-Rancho 5009 or similar shock
-Panhard drop or raise of appropriate length
-Control arms with heims/Johnny Joints
-Custom gas tank skid
I think that the tank can be raised slightly without big reworkings, I hope to try this over Christmas when I have fiddle time and can chat with my welder. Other than that, it is pretty bolt and go.
#3
All I did was put Explorer procomp es3000's in the back and removed the rear sway bar. I can't remember the exact length of them. 22 Inches long i think.
It makes a world of difference offroad. Feels like I have a locker now with all that flex. I did have the driveshaft rub on the gas tank a couple times, but that's in the most extreme conditions.
Mike.
#4
ive got the downey 3in rear lift kit, just to tell you a story i went wheelin this past weekend and there was a stock xterra in front of me, he went over a drop real slow and while i was watching lifted a rear tire at least a foot or more off the ground. i went and did the exact same thing but parked it and got out to look, both rear tires solid and flat on the ground with some insane flexing. i do take off the swaybar links when i wheel, they limit the flex alot. basically you can get real nice rear flex by getting better springs, longer shocks, and taking off the swaybar. the front isnt so easy, i wouldnt even bother trying.
#5
also...i think for people with a custom rear bumper such as myself and adrian, it makes us look like we flex more because our bumper doesnt hang down as much stock bumpers. i dont know where im going with this..but..thought it had something to do with the thread.
:pat:
:pat:
#6
doink,
I'm following your train of thought (I think). Right now, my entire rear bumper is off the truck and it makes the 32" BFG muds look a lot bigger. Same way, when tire isn't hidden behind the mudflap and you can see between the top of the tire and the wheel well, it really looks like you have some big time flex.
I'm following your train of thought (I think). Right now, my entire rear bumper is off the truck and it makes the 32" BFG muds look a lot bigger. Same way, when tire isn't hidden behind the mudflap and you can see between the top of the tire and the wheel well, it really looks like you have some big time flex.
#7
doink,
I'm following your train of thought (I think). Right now, my entire rear bumper is off the truck and it makes the 32" BFG muds look a lot bigger. Same way, when tire isn't hidden behind the mudflap and you can see between the top of the tire and the wheel well, it really looks like you have some big time flex.
I'm following your train of thought (I think). Right now, my entire rear bumper is off the truck and it makes the 32" BFG muds look a lot bigger. Same way, when tire isn't hidden behind the mudflap and you can see between the top of the tire and the wheel well, it really looks like you have some big time flex.
Trending Topics
#8
I think that the perspective is key, but I am pretty sure that the reason it looks like I have a ton of flex in this pic is because I do.
Or in this one, take a look at the wheel in relation to the slider. I think it flexes pretty good.
Or in this one, take a look at the wheel in relation to the slider. I think it flexes pretty good.

#10
so how exaclty do you remove the rear sway bar? i read that it doesnt affect body roll too much, but in order to get that sort of flex, you have to add longer shocks? i assume front and rear? what is a panhard drop bracket and control arms, i thought those were for the front. as you can see i need some information, any provided would be good, thanks
#11
rear flex
don't have any pics to show but on my truck i removed the load spring from the rear pack. i then mix and matched some leaves i had laying around. i still in the process of playing around with different leaves but right now i've got a six leaf pack that gave me 2 inches and is super soft. the shocks are limiting me by a few inches. it was free and kind of fun testing them
#12
well since i am hopefully doing a 3.4l swap within the next 2 weeks i will be going with either a 1in. or a 2in. body lift and would be woving the gas tank up to see if that will help clearance.
Thanks
Thanks
#15
well from what i hear it takes a 2in. body lift or hood scop. what i think im gonna do is a hood scoop from a 3rd gen. runner and if thats not enough a 1in body lift.
Thanks
Thanks
#16
FWIW taking off the rear shocks is a PITA! mainly the upper mounts. especially the passenger side! oh and the downeys are on! side by side the downey coils are a little shorter but gave about 1in. or 1 1/2in. of lift! now all i need are some shocks!
Last edited by 914runner; Nov 15, 2003 at 07:17 PM.
#17
well this is my stock 94 with the sway bars on and regular stock legnth shocks. from the looks of the other pictures, the top of your tires look pretty close to being level with the bottom of your back bumpers. (i don't know if i was completely flexed, but im guessing not) so from what i see (from my untrained eye), it only looks like an inch of difference if that, but i guess it depends on tire size and if there is a lift involved? i got 31s and stock sagging springs.
#18
i have a superlift 5" rear lift installed and have a question about my limiting straps, are these really needed, they seem like they would be but ive heard about ppl taking them off for the heck of it and to get more articulation
#19
i have limiting straps on mine. i honestly done think they are needed. but, dont quote me on that. when i put in some coil spacers , i have the limiting straps off, and it was amazing how low my rear axle would go....or, well, so it seemed
#20
It ends up that either the shock or the limiting strap stop your extension travel.
I was watching some footage of this summer and I actually had a couple places where I lifted rear tires which means my 5009's were all the way maxed.
I was watching some footage of this summer and I actually had a couple places where I lifted rear tires which means my 5009's were all the way maxed.



only kidding of course