Ring gear bolts backed out
#1
Ring gear bolts backed out
Situation: rear ring gear bolts backed out and loose. Randy's R&P did the work so don't ask about Loctite. Carrier is an ARB Air Locker so there are no bolt locking plates. I have since swapped out with the stock 3rd member so I can work with this one on the bench. I've pulled the ring gear, pulled the pinion nut and removed the pinion to inspect everything. I DID NOT, however, pull the bearings or move any of the shims on either gear.
Question: Assuming everything is in fine shape and ready to be put back together, can I simply buy a new crush sleeve, ring gear bolts, tooth pattern marking compound and Loctite and just set it up again without having to fully disassemble and re-shim for pinion depth? Basically just using the gears and shims as they are still installed on the pinion and carrier/locker?
My question is CAN I do this, or is it required that I get a master install kit and start from scratch with new bearings and shims.
Your help is appreciated.
Thanks.
Question: Assuming everything is in fine shape and ready to be put back together, can I simply buy a new crush sleeve, ring gear bolts, tooth pattern marking compound and Loctite and just set it up again without having to fully disassemble and re-shim for pinion depth? Basically just using the gears and shims as they are still installed on the pinion and carrier/locker?
My question is CAN I do this, or is it required that I get a master install kit and start from scratch with new bearings and shims.
Your help is appreciated.
Thanks.
#2
Sure you can!
Pinion depth wouldn't change.
Just put'er back together and pay special attention to the tooth contact pattern when you set the backlash. Check to make sure all the bearings spin nicely too(assuming they've already passed a visual inspection).
Personally, I'd just reuse the parts you have(I've reused all parts mentioned with no problems)...but if you really need the peace of mind...
Definetely no need for a master install kit though.
Good luck!
Pinion depth wouldn't change.
Just put'er back together and pay special attention to the tooth contact pattern when you set the backlash. Check to make sure all the bearings spin nicely too(assuming they've already passed a visual inspection).
Personally, I'd just reuse the parts you have(I've reused all parts mentioned with no problems)...but if you really need the peace of mind...
Definetely no need for a master install kit though.
Good luck!
Last edited by MudHippy; Jun 16, 2009 at 02:57 PM.
#3
what did Randy's R&P say?
you marked the position of the carrier bearing retainers--right?
seems to me with a new crush sleeve (most recommend a solid sleeve) pinion depth would change but that is why i pay others to do my diff work...
I would take a look at Zuk's site: http://gearinstalls.com/
you marked the position of the carrier bearing retainers--right?
seems to me with a new crush sleeve (most recommend a solid sleeve) pinion depth would change but that is why i pay others to do my diff work...
I would take a look at Zuk's site: http://gearinstalls.com/
#4
#7
If you 'wheel hard and/or considering dual cases, IMHO you MUST go with the solid spacer. The third itself can deform under high loads, changing the crush sleeve and leading to pinion bearing death.
At least it did for me.
At least it did for me.
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#8
Mine did the same thing and punctured a whole in the top of my axle housing.
Sent it back in for warranty and upon inspection all parts inside my rear end were fine. You should be fine, i have a Detroit in mine, im sure your ARB was just fine too.
Luckily, none of my bearings or the R&P were damaged and some new bolts and it was good to go.





Sent it back in for warranty and upon inspection all parts inside my rear end were fine. You should be fine, i have a Detroit in mine, im sure your ARB was just fine too.
Luckily, none of my bearings or the R&P were damaged and some new bolts and it was good to go.





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