So I am running Camburg UCA’s with sway-a-way coils, so I know I have more travel which puts my CV shafts in more of a bind. Although since I have owned this runner (5 months or so), I have replaced the original cv's, and now I am on my 5th Napa unit. All the stores in my area are starting to not believe my BS about not off roading with their CV's when I go to return them with the warranty. So what can I do? I put two new ones on two weeks ago, went and ran box canyon and coke ovens trail and the passenger side boot is gone and grease is everywhere again and the driver’s side has a whole bunch of play in it. Does anybody make a set of built proof CV's for the '96 Runners? Or am I just going to have to do a SAS for as hard as I play?

 

Do you have a diff drop? If not get one

 

I would but I have Bud Built Skids. I wont be able to run those with the diff drop right?

 

BB skid was designed to work with either 1" diff. drop or no drop. and you should not crank that coilovers up over past 2.5" lift. if you want more lift, go with either mid travel or long travel kits, with aftermarket UCA's and LCA's and CV axles. or, manual hub conversion.

 

so a total of 6? how much lift are you running up front? if you are in the 2.5-3.5 range then you need to look at your driving manors. slow, steady, and straight keeps the cvs together. steering cranked, suspension drooped, and gas pedal makes them break the most.

 

I have no idea how much lift I got them at right now. I did not measure before and after. I will def. order a dif drop today, now that I know the skid will work with it. And troy, about my driving manors, I am fully aware of what a cv does at full droop, 4L, fully turned, and with a little gas, aint my first rodeo.

 

diff drops don't do jack

just lower your front co's, are your fins touching at ride height?

i don't know what your doing, but I wheel pretty good and haven't totally screwed a cv over yet, and I am locked in the front. and yes i have been drooped, fully turned, locked, on the gas and haven't broken anything yet. as guess its all the traction we don't get out here.

 

What were you doing when you blew the CV? Was it the same situation for each of the blown axles?

I'm guessing your SAWs are set too high.

 

I am just tearing the inner boots, then gets in there and locks them up when I am wheeling. And I dont know how my co's can be too high, my truck sits like a stink bug right now how they are. Crolison what do you mean fins touching at ride height?. I just finished putting the new cv in. I ll tell you what, those dudes at napa hate me, they see me come in and they just stare at me, like "really? again?" haha I am proud to say I can a change a cv out in under 15 minutes now.

 

Once you get everything back together again and sitting on rubber, take a look at the CV boots. Crolison is asking if the fins on the boots are touching when you look at them.

Did you do the lift or was it on when you bought it?

 

I'll look tomorrow to see if the fins are touching on the boots.
The truck was bought stock with worn out coils.
The SAWS are not even jacked up that much.

Do you think I should do a 1'' diff drop?

Just looked today and the other shaft the has been in there for two weeks has slop in the bearings. Am I just having bad luck with napa units?

 

A diff drop couldn't hurt but I would not count on it to keep the same issue from happening.

What do you mean by slop in the bearings?

If Steve wasn't on vacation I'd say run by Sonoran Steel and have him take a look at it.

 

wanna try this?
http://www.allprooffroad.com/9602frontsuspension/282

by the way, are you running with sway bar removed?

 

What I mean by slop in the bearing is I can grab the shaft of the cv between the boots and wiggle it around. I am guessing that not suppose to happen?

Those long travel boots from all-pro look like something that could def help my problem. But how in the heck would you fit that small end of the boot of the large part of the cv?

 

the boots tearing are more of an indicator of some other front end issue. alot of guys tear boots and dont repair them for up to a year without breaking cvs. your at 6 cv's in 5 monthes and apparently arnt beating on the truck. defiantly post up some pictures of your cv angles with the truck sitting on the ground and maybe some jacked up to show full droop. also im sure the napa units arnt quite as tough as OEM but that dosnt account for 6 dead ones either.

 

And I took the sway bars off. I figured why spend over of 2 grand on suspension, then have sway bars not let the truck do its thing. ya know?

 

At ride height-
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...2/cvangle2.jpg

At full droop-
http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/h...2/cvangle4.jpg

 

not quite, why people spend twice of that money on LT conversion also put on limit straps.
TC long travel kit:
Parts Included:
Upper A-Arms W/ Bushings, Uniballs, & Clips
Lower A-Arms W/ Bushings, Shock Mounts
Tie-Rod Extensions
Braided Stainless Brake Lines D.O.T. Approved
Grade 8 Hardware
Adjustable Limit Straps & Mounts
....



base on the picture of the full drop, nothing is gonna save the CV unless you cure that angle.

 

There is your problem brutha! I did that many a time on my 03 taco before I got a diff drop, and turned my C/O's down to 2in. At 2.5" I was wearing them out like a champ too. I'm running the same front suspension as you on my front , just need to get off my rear and install my UCA's. I have them set at 2in. with diff drop and I have put a grip of miles on mine. Haven't wheeled the crap out of my truck yet. My rear be draggin' ha

 

When i bought mine from camburg, they said the bottom of the shock will be the bottoming out factor, "Do I need limit straps with this set up?" and they told me no.