I have had my rear passenger side axle seal replaced 3 times, and I am tired of it. I am pretty sure there is something going on with the axle or the drive shaft. Can anyone give me some insight into my situation? What likely is wrong with my 4runner? Is it the axle or the drive shaft and what kind of ridiculous repair costs am I looking at?


I have a 98 4runner V6 4x4 - 145K on the odometer

 

strange. who is doing the repairs?

 

Once it was performed by a shop before I purchased it. I looked at the service records from the previous owner.. The other 2 times it was replaced by the same shop, once on warranty because 6 months later it failed and their warranty was 12 months. Maybe i should go to the dealership or a toyota certified joint since they may be more experienced with the problem.

Edit:

Actually I forgot that the service record didn't specify from the previous owner if it was the driver or passenger axle seal. So it maybe 2 times or 3 times.

 

the axle seal going out that much suggests either inproper installation or there is an internal problem.

Check your axle breather and make sure it isn't clogged. if it is clogged it is possible to build up too much pressure internally as the temp increases and blows by the seal.

 

Also if they arent oiling the seals ring before instalation the seals life can dramaticaly decrease

 

OEM or aftermarket seals? I've heard to only use OEM and on both my 4runners I used OEM and my '99s are just fine after almost 50k miles.

 

Not sure what could be wrong... I'm "redoing" my rear brake setup to include new drums/shoes/hardware/cylinders..... Do you or anyone else recommend replacing the side axle seals??

 

Be sure the new seal you are putting in is Toyota OEM and the newer recommended part number

ends with digit "6"

be sure your diff breather is not clogged.

 

I always get "marlin crawler Heavy duty axle seals" never have experienced a problem.

 

Another place to look- if the bearings have been replaced check that they were installed in the proper positions. There's no spacer and sometimes shops press the bearings all the way down. There should be a space between the bearings or the seals won't come in contact and therefore leak.
Basically, both sides should match so if you weren't sure you could pull both axles to check.

 

replace them both at the same time.

they are easily damaged sliding the axles back in. id check with the shop that did it the last time and see if theyll replace them under warranty. and watch em too!

check the axles to see if there is a nick or worn area/groove.

they are easy to do.

 

I didn’t read all of the post above mine but my mechanic I hired used OEM seals and drove them in with a seal driver, then lubed the seal with transmission fluid for the shaft. It took him 30 minutes and 50 dollars later I was on the road, he also gave me a written 1 year warrantee. The time I saved was worth the 50 I spent. I would take it to a different shop.

 

have your wheel bearings replaced. also check where the seal rides. if its cut a grove it the axle its gonna leak unless you can speedy sleeve the seal area.

 

Unless you bash the seal with the splined end of the axle, how would you damage the seal when installing it? I just did both sides on my 1999 SR5 and the last inch before its seated is guided by the 4 1" stud bolds on the flange. So theres nothing to get near the seal until the last 1/4" of insertion. Once the studs enter the axle housing the spacer should be in alignment with the seal opening. Also the inside of the housing is narrower than the seal opening (last photo). So once the axle is in, theres no way it can touch the seal.

What I believe is happening is the inner spacer is not being positioned properly on the axle. It has to be 122.5mm from the outer face of the hub, +/- 1mm. Yep, a 2mm tolerance. Whoever does your seals and bearing, give them a copy of the FSM instructions. The seal lip seats on the bevel of the spacer.

And make sure the axle housing vent is open and working. Otherwise you'll be redoing this fairly quickly.

Link to FSM http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...a/ras/insp.pdf





If you are curious if your seal is leaking, pull out the ABS sensor and if you see the honey colored lube on the ABS ring, its leaking.

 

Get some Marlin seals and check your breather vent

 

Everyone who has used Marlin. What makes Marlin better than OEM? I just put OEM inner rear axle seals and bearings in and they are leaking already after 300 miles. I've been checking through the ABS sensor hole and I can see the gear lube on the ABS ring.

I can do this repair in my sleep now so I'm game to try another brand. I need to try something before it reches the bearings. Also, I have done the differential housing vent reloaction so I know its not pressure inside.

The truck is a 1999 4Runner SR5 3.4L 4x4

 

Answer: Don't automatically replace your rear wheel bearings, it's a big expensive job especially with anti-lock brakes. I know, I've done it.

Have your rear wheel bearings checked for runout. If they are a few 'thous out of spec, then NO axle seal will last. OEM seals are fine and will last over 150,000 miles if everything else is in good spec.

.

 

It could also be a bent axle housing.

If the housing is bent, your axle shaft isn't going to sit the way it's supposed to inside the axle housing, causing more wear on parts of the seal.

Not sure how to check if it's bent? I'd like to know that, 'cause I think my front axle housing could be bent....

Could always look into getting a Rock Assault rear end and put the best of the best of parts into it. Just cost and time consuming... But well worth it! I'm trying to do that myself!

 

Marlin only works on axles sans ABS FYI.