I have a 1992 3.0 4WD xtra cab Delux truck w/ 170k on the clock.
I removed the left front wheel and intended on tightening up the wheel bearings.
1st- WHERE do I find a 54mm socket to tighten those 2 huge nuts up?
(PLEEEZ don't say get out the gold card and find the Snap Off truck!)
2nd- Now, I reassembled it, just as Mr. Haynes showed, managed to tighten the wheel bearings a smidge w/ 90 degree needle nose pliars acting as the 54mm socket, but when I reinstalled the manual locking hub, it will not disengage. I tried again, same deal. If the red selector on the outside is set to free, the wheel will spin w/o the driveshaft moving. If, however, I engage 4WD and lock the hub, it will not unlock.
Anyone w/ any of the same problems or suggestions?
Also, I seemed to have what looked like 1 extra washer that goes between one of the 6 bolts that hold the exterior of the hub onto the inner hub/disc. Perhaps, this is the problem? Well, there (unlike the Haynes pix) is a 6mm bol and a big washer screwed into the end of the drive shaft. Once all torn apart, I found 7 6mm thin washers. So, I put this washer between the fender washer and the end of the driveshaft...it looked like it might've come from there as I was (running late for dinner w/ g/f too...) looking at the threads in the middle of the driveshaft stub axle and wasn't sure that the screw would go all the way in w/o the "extra" washer. Could be part of the problem?
btw, right side hub, i never got to, and still works fine, haven't yet gotten elusive 54mm socket to properly torque and tighten right side front whl brg.
Thanks,
Dave Schumpert
'73 Porsche 914 2.0 w/ 2 much 'factory rust' ...been rustored 11 yrs ago, now parting out for $$$$

'88 NT650 Honda Hawk aka 'Left Coast Lindsay'-rode 10k+ in 1 year till she shattered my femur and cracked my pelvis...then was stolen out of friend's front yard in Mammoth CA as my 'rents wouldn't let my best friend put her in back of my truck when he brought Sluggo Thu Mule back to me in VA..too much fun, but no more bikes 4 me as broke same leg 3x (1st time skiing down same mtn 30 months, 3 days earlier on the clock in ski school clinic)

'88 VW Junka/Jetta GLi 16v w/ 166k....and 2.5 extra free 020 gearboxes and a new clutch...OEM 020 gearbox shat the bed and has 2 "drain holes" where the krauts saved $1/vehicle and RIVETED the ring gear on the diff-they sheared off and it also has fist-sized hole behind flywheel-2 boxes are torn down in shed awaiting rebuild-motor held in car w/ 2x4 & motorcycle tie down!...T3/T4 currently a book end-will be installed for GRM's $2009 challenge, along w/ other stuff...once she moves under her own power!

'90 Kawasaki Mutant Mod Ninja ZX7 w/ '06 636 front end, etc-for sale

'92 TOYota extra cab 4WD 3VZE pickup daily driver w/ 170.6k

'98 Ducati 900ss F.E. #187/250-investment/wreck restoration who financed most of my street legal racebike Honda Hawk

 

Look on my website 79-95 toyotas then aisins. Some tech articles at the bottom of the page that will help. The elsuive 54mm socket is there too.

 

 

they sell 54mm at most automotive shops for really cheap like 5$ or so.

 

Sears sells a 2 1/8" (54mm) and the 3/4 to 1/2 step down for less than $27.

 

I've seen hubs stick for one of three reasons

1) incorrect assymbely (if the hub cover and dial assymbely is clocked wrong, it wont allow the teeth inside the hub to fully disengage)

2) too much grease; probably the most common happening (too much grease can cause almost a suction on the inner moving parts and hold them tight in their place, as the unlock return spring doesn't have a great deal of force to overcome that suction)

3) that internal unlock return spring broke (maybe because of old age, or just mishandled)

 

I'll bet the dial was clocked wrong when it was. If I recall, it has to be set to free with the big spring compressed all the way so that the coupler ring (real name???) is pulled close to the dial.

 

that's correct

a commen mistake during the installation is to have begin to insert the dial-cover assymbely onto the housing, only to realise that the little bit of metal cupping the spring and the small protusions on the hub vcover are not aligned right to the open slots on the housing, and the person doesn't COMPLETELY pull the cover away and align it, but just turns it while the teeth are still engaged with the hub body, thus moving things away from the "Free" position and slightly to the "Locked" position. Normally when this happend, the dial will not turn all the way to "Lock" either

I realise that this is the wrong side of the hub body, but the slots are the same all the way through



I like to used my Paint skillz whenever I can

 

I payed 32$ at sears for the same set up I wanted to get the one from wabbit but if I bought it from him I felt I needed to buy the wheel bearing sets at the same time and I did not want to wait a few days for shipping because I had already tore the the hubs off and had the wheels and calipers off and the el cheapo socket from O'reilly for fords did not work.

 

which ones? Advance has nothing above 1 1/8"
I'll prob by Crapsman @ Sears but if decent socket can be had for less than $32 from place X, let me know.
thanx

 

I could have told you no dice at Advance

well ok, they've got those fuzzy dice, but none of the socket's you seek

 

I just bought a 55 mm socket at Autozone. I couldn't find a 54, but the 55 worked fine. 55mm is only .040" larger than a 54mm so there is not that much difference. As a matter of fact the one I bought was marked "For Toyta Land Cruiser". These are made from formed tubing and not a cast socket. The cost was $16. I also saw that Checker had them.

 

well that's cool

yeah if the nut size is that big, I size up can normally get the job done, just because of the size of the nut and socket, and the fact that there's more area on the flat portions for the socket to make contact with the nut with

so you got that from AutoZone huh; what size drive does it have on it, 3/4" ?

 

Thanks to all.
I managed to get a 2 1/8" socket and adapter from Sears Wed. afternoon, and, of course, began taking the left side apart as it was getting cold and the sun going down.

Eventually, after reading & rereading Ch. 8 of the Haynes and carefully inspecting pix, i found the inner spring in the outer hub cover/dial was disengaged with the inner groove of the locking part of the hub. Doah. Took a few installs to get it to work correctly, but now I can ACTUALLY disengage the 4WD hub. Just had to put it together the way others reccomended and EXACTLY as it looks in the low res b&w pix in Haynes.

Problem/Question....
Haynes says to the effect (not w 4 w, but details correct)
Loosen both nuts till inner nut is just hand tight. Measure hub drag with fish scale. Write down, put in safe deposit box, keep # for later...
Tighten inner nut to 18 ft-lb. Install locking washer (the one that folds over outer nut) and torque outer nut to 33 ft-lb.
Now, hub drag should be 6-12 ft-lb more than original untightened drag.
Well, I did my math several times and got it all kosher w/ the lug bolt having a 3" moment arm to the center of hub, etc.

It said to then adjust the torque of the 54mm nut till the drag on the wheel bearing is correct. Well e! I kept upping the torque by 5 ft-lb and saw little difference. I stopped at 40 ft-lb because i dunno if you can overtighten the nut and maybe mess up bearings over time. I still needed 60-100 lb-force on the fish scale after conversion factors, and was only able to show 25 lb-force.

So, should I continue to tighten the inner nut way past 40 ft-lb to get the correct drag, or let er eat and leave it be? Bearing does feel tighter, but I still need to tighten other side and hope noise goes away. (btw, truck has a mere 170,600 miles on the clock...of the eventual 0.5x10^6 miles I plan putting on it before it turns into a lawn sculpture...)
The roller bearings and races looked good, although the inner part of the stub axle looked a little bit funky. Can post a pic or two if that might help.

-Dave