Here is the short story, bought the truck new in 92, currently has 176k miles on it. Recently the truck ran hot, didn't get hot enough to do damage, this I am sure of. So I think (hoping) just a bad thermo. Changed the thermo, broke a bolt, broke an ease out, won a "new" manifold from ebay. By the way, will an 89 22re intake fit a 92 22re? Checked the oil, milkly and fommie to be technical, also has some oil in the radiator. Took the valve cover off, timing guides are GONE, deep grooves in the drivers side. I watched in a daze of disappointment and can actually see little beeds of antilfreeze form and slide down toward the oil pan under no pressure. Can this account for the truck getting hot?

When I change the timing cover, should I go ahead and replace the head gasket? Thanks for the help in advance folks. I am in the Nashville area, if anyone would like to come over and "help" with this job! All the coke, Dr. pepper, or beer that you can drink. If your a duck hunter, I can make all the duck calls you want in trade for your help (arkansas or reelfoot). You can email me direct at skyratcalls@yahoo.com.

 

if you've never done the head gasket you might as well do it as most yotas need it done after 100k or more, new timing chain, and guides would be a swell idea too!

 

If I were closer I would give you a hand. Search around on here and you will find some writeups to help you out. It's a pain in the ass job but there is nothing all that difficult about it. Good luck.

Rob

 

The auto teacher here at my high school says that the engine will be ruined if water gets in the oil pan regardless. Is this an absolute truth, or is it possible that the rod and main bearings will be ok. If they need to be replaced, can it be done through the oil pan? Thanks in advance.

 

No, I don't think it is an absolute truth. There are thousands of these trucks running around out there that have experienced the same problem with the timing chain cutting a hole in the timing cover that have been put back in service without rebuilding the bottom end.

As for replacing the main bearings in place, I don't think you can do it. Think you have to pull the crank in order to replace the mains. But, I'm not 100% sure. You might be able to do the rod bearings, but you won't be able to check or service the wrist pins and bushings.

Probably you should do what most people do: replace the timing set and chain guides, clean out the oil pan, cross your fingers and go for it.

But then, your engine has 176k on it and that's a lot so rebuilding the bottom end is not a bad idea.

 

Whether or not it affected your main bearings will depend on how much you drove it after the mixing occurred.

Rob

 

I took several pictures of the engine before, and now during the "fix" to help me locate vacuum lines and such when I put it all back together. I can't figure out how to post them here, so I put them on my personal website, don't worry this is not an effort to infest you with viruses or anything like that. My website is http://skyratcalls.com. Click on the "truck" button at the top of the page. I thought it might some others get things back together. I will label, and put more pictures on as time permits in the morning. Remember that I have to replace the intake as well as I broke a bolt off and then broke the ease out. Won an intake on ebay, got both the upper and lower portion, recieved the upper today, hope to get the lower soon. So if anyone needs and upper manifold (the part with EFI) stamped on it let me know. I also have a 5 speed transmission that was ran low on fluid and now wont stay in gear (spindles worn out)? Love to trade those items to an air compressor, as mine is frozen up. I love this little truck, please remember it in your prayers.

 

An update, decided not to replace the headgasket at the same time as the timing issues. Ran fine for 4000 miles, blew the silly head gasket, so yes, if your reading this because of a worn through timing cover, go ahead and replace the hg. It was 40 bucks at toyota, the bolts were 70 bucks. I have read since that there is no need to replace the bolts though.

 

So you didn't replace the main bearing and everything is still functioning properly.