go ahead I got the fire suit on...

I did search with terms like "spark plug change" and "Pictures spark plug" but of course did not find what I think I need...

I am inept with tools but my 16year old car crazy son will supervise me changing out my spark plugs.

I know I need a torque wrench and have the K16Tr11 Nippodensos ready and waiting. ($1.60 each at RockAuto. love those guys....)

I have done spark plug changes before but technology has changed significantly since my 72 Gremlin's 232 straight 6.

Will I damage my coil packs?

Can I do one plug at a time and minimize my wire swap risks? I should remove the negative battery cable first before commencing work?

Boss me around.... point me to threads I should have found I like pictures.....

teach me how to search and feed a village....I either get 4 pages of unrelated crap or "terms not found"

 

http://www.4runners.org/writeups/sparkplugs/

What I would like to know is how you check and gap a dual electrode plug? A traditional spark plug gapping tool does not fit between the round center piece and the concave ends of the two prongs.

 

Ron, the above link should provide enough info for you. Also, take a look at this one: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...ep3.html#plugs. The fuel line method works great too.

 

skjos thanks very much I looked on T4R as well, But clearly did not find.

appreciate the link sir

per first paragraph the Nippodensos are pregapped at .044 so no need to gap.

Still I like the idea of checking the gap-and your point is still valid-

how does one check the gap on a dual electrode plug? Is that a specialized gap tool?

 

rock slide thanks for that link also

I had forgotten about 4x4 wire and those guys are most helpful. I like that idea of the fuel type hose to start the threading.

appreciate you guys stepping up to help me out.

I can handle this. Those pictures most helpful from Bob98SR5 writeup. This will not be hard. No I don't have to undo the negative battery cable.

 

Do use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads and a dielectric grease on the wire ends.

 

yes it mentions that for the threads- and I have one of those handy dandy plug wire pullers so I don't damage them. thanks Gerdo

 

After you loosen each plug a couple of turns, take a shop vac and suck out any debris to keep it from falling in the combustion chamber. The photo below is a good example of why you should use anti-seize.

 

you gonna need a some long extensions a spark plug socket and a deep metric socket.... get the spark plug started with the spark plug socket then finish with the reg socket .... dont need a torque wrench just get it snug and go a half turn