I need some people (as many as possible) to take pictures of their cam bolts on the lower control arms. I am trying to make a formula for determining relative cam bolt position for for decent caster with BJ spacers or stock for this thread, my driveway alignment writeup: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ite-up-163432/

There are 4 (Driver's Rear, PR) so please label them and state if you have BJ spacers, a bracket lift etc.

Thanks


Cam bolts:

 

Ill get you a few pics of mine when i head out today, which will be in an hour or 2.

 

4" ProComp bracket lift.
caster @ 0 left and right
camber @ 0 left and right

 

I understand what you are trying to do, but i just don't get it.... every truck is going to be different. its best to get everything set up, torsion bars, bj spacers whatever, then take it to an aliment shop. Believe me i have done what you are trying to do and never got my aliment right. All looked good, but still ate up tires, even drove fine.

 

I'm looking specifically at caster angle here based on cam bolt positioning. Alignment shops try to get things to fall roughly "in spec". None of out cars really drove any better after an alignment, they still pulled, wandered so I can't justify throwing a hundred bucks away for something that I can do myself. I can't think any positive caster is going to have an effect on tire wear. Toe has a huge effect, caster has a small effect (over the life of the tires) and caster is neglible.

 

Matt16... though I appreciate you trying to help... and it's a noble effort I will add....
... there are calculations for alignment that require utilization of the drive axle, in our case the rear axle, that become meaningless if the the frame is bent, springs sag on one side and not the other, tires are worn, frame is twisted, LCA's separate at the rear, ad infinitum.
For instance, my frame is nearly perfect as is obvious by the only 'slight' deviations from center on the eccentrics. Were my IFS sub-frame spread at the rear lower a-arms, one would have to dial less in at the rear eccentrics in order to compensate for the caster. Were my rear axle off a bit, making the truck 'dog track', then the adjustments would be more on one side than they are on the other.

I'll give you one bit of advise- make sure you tell people that your procedure is only a base/guide line to get you in the ballpark where tire wear will be minimal but not optimal, and should be followed up with a trip to a qualified alignment facility in order to dial everyting in.

I don't mean anything negative about what you're trying to do, but at least think about the variables involved and how those could affect what you are trying to convey. That is all.

 

"a few 100 bucks"?

I paid 24$ for my alignment on my 4runner...

 

I was quoted $100 for a toe in alignment. My rod ends were worn out, and those would have been replaced ($60 ea) for a rack alignment. So for me to get a shop alignment, it would have cost me $220+ R&R for rusty seized sleeves. That's crazy, $24?! I couldn't even get an oil change for that. Are you sure they touched the cam bolts, not just the tie-rod adjusters?

 

I've got a lifetime alignment policy on mine... take it in and get it set... was about 150 bucks.
[time on the frame rack not included]
If I add BJ spacers- no charge.
If I add long travel- no charge.
If I fart too hard and blow the front out- no charge.
Already asked and that's why I paid a litle more.

 

You're probably right... I'd still like to see how people's cam bolts sit.

 

Abe, why do you have low-profile compression bumpstops on the front of the LCA and OEM stops at the rear?