I have an Optima "clone" battery from Les Schwab tires.
It's been a great battery, but I think it's going out.

Just a bit ago when I had to go gas up, the engine would not start.
The starter spins, but kind of slow.
After a bit it started.

Same thing yestermorn too.
The battery is 3 years old as of June a few months back, and had a two year free replacement.
It does however have an 84 month warranty on it, so I am sure I can get the next one pro rated.

I'd like to get an Optima, but since this ones still pro ratable, I might as well take advantage of it.
This is the one I'll probably end up getting, as it has the side terminals I need for my audio amps.

How long have most been getting out of their gel cell batteries?

 

I have over 8 years on my red top Optima and it still seems to be going strong.

 

when you get it prorated, try to just get your money back and dont buy a new battery. then take that and buy an optima

 

les schwab's batteries are crap in my opinion,
as well as there brake & suspension parts
i would go for a optima.
see if you have a interstate battery wholesaler around you,
they can just about beat everyones prices

 

I bought a Optima clone this summer. I assumed that Optima made the clone and it probably had the same technology and was of similar quality. Maybe I'm wrong, but it was there, I needed a battery, and this one seemed better suited to the rough treatment of wheeling. Go for it Corey...it's just a battery. It'll get you another 3 years down the road of life.

 

Just tested the voltage on the battery with the engine off.
12.30 volts.
With engine started I get 14.58 volts

I would think 12.30 volts would be enough after sitting over night, or does that sound low?
Obviously it started up though, since I tested it at warm-up too, and it started the first try.

If it's not the battery, perhaps the coil is messing up?
When it's messing up, it just cranks.

It's not the cold start injector, as that was replaced October of '99, and when it messed up, the rig would sputter after starting up.

No sputtering here when it won't start, it just takes awhile when it does mess up, then it starts fine and idles fine.

PS, just got off the phone with Les Schwab, and he said the 12.30 voltage was fine for the battery when the rig is off.
They will load test it though, and the time left on the 84 month warranty will allow me 75% coverage towards a new one.
And the kicker is...they also carry "real" red top Optimas which he would give me.

 

its not the voltage what matters.. its the CCAs that the battery is putting out at 12+ volts. take it to sams club and ask them to test it

if its putting out less than its rated CCAs at the proper voltage, then its a bad battery

 

FWIW... I've got over 7 years on my factory battery. I've run it dead 3 times, recharged it and it's still going like new.

 

Corey, according to this website , those batteries are made by GNB, which is now a division of Exide.

I think your battery, like Optimas, are not gel cell, but AGM (absorbed glass mat) type, which is basically still a lead-acid battery, just in a different configuration than the lead-plate type.

I'm not sure if your problem is the battery or not - those problems always seem elusive to me - and it seems like only the testing equipment tells the truth.

My last Red Top didn't survive it's full life with me - I overheated it at least once, and I think I put too many loads on it - it lasted only 3 years and 4 months. I like you - prorated mine due to $$, so I have another Red Top, but that's ok because I ended up doing the dual-battery setup. If Les Schwab will let you apply your pro-rate to a different battery, you should consider a deep cycle with a decent cold-cranking amp rating (like the YellowTop) because it will probably last longer due to the drains you may be putting on it with your winch, stereo, lights, etc.

 

The AGM batteries aren't really like a flooded battery either. The gel cell uses a mixture of acid and different powders to fill the space between the plates in the battery. The AGM fills the spaces with an acid impregnated fiberglass matt. Both types will not leak acid, even when the case is cracked or broken. The AGM is suppose to be a bit more vibration proof, and can be mounted in any position without loss of power. Gel batteries will lose a percentage of their capacity by being mounted on their side or upside down. The matt in an AGM is suppose to create less internal resistance, which means you can put more power into the battery faster (like with a high amp alternator) and take power out faster (like when using a winch). The big minus with a gel cell is that they are picky about charging voltages, and with a stock alternator you have a chance of charging them at too high a voltage which will shoten the life of the battery. This is probably more than you wanted to know about batteries, so I'll just stop now and hope this info helps.

 

I was thinking about replacing my battery, how much would a RedTop Optima cost? I need something that I could just hook up my old battery cables to and go. I'm not sure about the Optima's but are they the same size as regular car batteries...so in turn..will they fit into the old spot? Thanks guys.

Fink

 

Thanks for the info guy's.
Still have not got it tested.
I have just about zero free time during the week, and most stuff I gotta do on weekends.

It's starting just fine, I may have drained it a bit as I sit in a lawn chair at work behind my Runner for dinner every night, and listen to the tunes with plenty of bass, and the engine off for about 20 minutes at a time.
May just now be putting a strain on the poor thing.

Chris, an Optima will fit in the stock spot just fine.
Do a Google search for them, and you will find a gazillion places to buy one from online, or by you.

 

Here is a place that I learned a few things about batteries while working on my dual battery setup.

 

I could be wrong about this. But doesn't a battery have a surface charge? I seem to remember that when having a battery tested the surface charge had to be removed before testing the battery. That way you get an accurate reading.

It's probably worth a shot to just take it to Autozone and have them check it for free.

Good Luck

 

Batteries are made from the same company and just packaged different. I know of two companies, Johnson Control and Exide. Les Schwab now carries Johnson Control brand batteries with Les Schwab packing on them. The exide or GNB batterys they use to carry failed alot. Just like any product out there, some people have great luck with while others get a bad one or lemon as we call it.

Just like a sharp rock is going to puncture any tire if you run over it just right,4ply.6ply,8ply,10ply. Nothing is the best.

I would have the battery tested, then go from there.

 

My battery is fine, and I found the problem.
Been meaning to update this, just now getting to it.

About 3 weeks ago at night I noticed the green "on" lamp for my power converter was on a dim glow, not a full glow like when you switch it on.

I have no idea why it's lit up when the power switch is off, but I pulled the fuse for it from the box under the rear seat and all is well.

For any of you running the same power converter as in my article in the Tech section, check yours in the dark too and see if it's lit up with a faint glow.

I do believe this was the source of my battery drain.

And for others who have a different make of a power converter, check yours also to see if it does the same.