My 94 3.0 Runner is on the road and runs reasonably smooth except when shifting from Park or Reverse into Drive. Almost jumps when put in gear. Doesn't seem to do it when going from Neutral or Park into Reverse. Idle is about 900 RPM.

I recently rebuilt the engine, but have done nothing to the transmission. I have done a number of searches on the various forum in an attempt to answer my questions, but have not found enough info for the following quesitons:

1. Given that the runner has 177K miles on it and I don't know what maintenance has been done to the tranny, what does everyone recommend doing as preventive maintenance? Fluid flush, filter replacement, fluid exchange, etc.? I have hear on more than one occassion that a complete flush is not recommended as it may dislodge buildup and clot jets/ports.

2. What ATF fluid is recommended?

3. ATF fluid is low on dipstick (below FULL mark when hot). Would this be the culprit for the sudden lunge/jump when moving to Drive?

I know little to nothing about AT's and need advice.

Thanks,

Aaron

 

Anyone?

 

Id call AAMCO transmissions and talk to them about it, then set up an appt so they can check it out. If you do need your fluid changed, change the filter as well.

If you do want to flush it, do not go to a juffy lube or something like that. My friend took his 94 gmc 3500 diesel there with the 700R4 tranny, they flushed it hard and messed up everything in it. They did buy him a new tranny tho.

If your tranny is low on fluid, id go top it off. I dont know what type of ATF it takes off the top of my head. Look in your owners manual or somewhere on here.

Ive always had good business with aamco, when i had my old car (98 chevy lumina) the torque converter was going out and they gave me a free flush and filter, and told me to go back in like a month, but i sold the car before that.

 

Thanks.

 

No problem.

 

Hello Aaron.

In the 200k+ miles on my wife's '92 4rnr the tranny's never been flushed. I always just drain it w/a fresh filter and it's been working beautifully. The only problems I've ever had were related to the speed sensor. Mt. Goat (Dale) has more knowledge on a flush. Might PM him.

I always like to use Amsoil synthetic in it, but as far as I know any synthetic ATF that meets the Dex II/III will be good. Amsoil is really, really good, though.

As far as your shifting, it being low could cause the hard shift. But, also if the fluid is old. What is the color and odor of the fluid?

 

Thook, thanks for the reply. The oil is still red/pink in color and only has a distinct tranny fluid smell. Don't think it is burned. Having said this, I have not experience with auto trannies, so I am limited in smell factors.

Regarding the change in filter, any advice on whether to use a filter from Toyota or Napa? Assuming it is recommended to use the Toyota filter. Is this a time consuming effort or pretty straight forward? Just drain fluid from plug, break seal along pan with a putty knife, remove pan, remove filter and replace all sound right?

A question on a different topic....CV joints and universal joints. Have you replaced either on your wife's runner?

 

I'm having some issues with my transmission that tough to diagnose. What were the symptoms of your speed sensor problems; how did you know it was bad?

 

1. That's a tough call, I probably would myself as long as it didn't look too bad. But I'd drop the pan and clean the magnets & pan and change the filter (with OEM).

2. Dex III, but I've been using Mobil 1 ATF. They (mobil) makes one that is specially for Aisin trannies, but I haven't tried that one because I've never seen it in a store.

3. Are you checking it with the engine running and hot after going through all the gear selections? If so just add a little bit to bring it up to full.

My Taurus shifts hard too and I don't know what it is. I've flushed it with Mobil 1 ATF and have the fluid level correct. It mainly does it when its cold.

Here's a good write-up on flushing: http://www.gadgetonline.com/TransFlush.htm

 

Mt_Goat, thanks for the link and the input. Gonna give it a whirl this weekend if I can get a filter from the dealership by then. BTW, I am checking the level after going through the gears while running.

 

I orderd mine here:
https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/partscat.html

Might as well pick up a tube of FIPG for the tranny pan too.

 

I have replaced both before. Why do you ask?

Erratic speedo, odo, and trip meter functioning. Plus, erratic tranny shifting and a code 42. If you had a bad speed sensor, you'd see any one or more of those symptoms, but namely a thrown code and erratic speedo.

Aaron.......wait until that FIPG fully cures overnight before you fill the tranny back up or flush it even. I made the mistake by not doing so (waited only a couple of hours) and now have to re-remove the adapter case pan and reseal. Requires dropping the crossmember. Bleh.....

Wish I new more about auto's. I know there's some helpful troubleshooting tips in the FSM. I'll see what I can find. Of course, there's google..... <<smart ass<<

 

i've actually had sub par experience with aamco, but they do uphold their warranties, so thats a plus.
they rebuilt my f250s tranny twice and it still slipped after a month of use. even with the heavy duty torque converter they installed.
honestly it could be mostly ford's fault for putting such a wimpy tranny behind the 7.3

 

Thook, I asked about the CV's and universal joints because I will be replacing the CV boots for sure this weekend as well as the front rotors. I have a nasty rumble in the steering column when I apply the brakes. After looking the FSM over and reading a few threads, it looks pretty straight forward in terms of removing the CV axle and getting both boots on. Anything special about doing this job? Also thinking that one of the UJ's may be failing and might be partly responsible for the hard shift when moving from N to drive. Thoughts?

 

Hmmmm........yeah, the UJ is a consideration. Worth a check. I've had similar symptoms from my 5spd when I had a UJ seizing up.

Nothing special about the CV's really. I know there's plenty of adequate on YT about doing it, so anything I could add would probably be redundant. However, should you run into anything questionable, I'm willing to help.

Wear rubber gloves.....

 

Here's the FSM troubleshooting for the 340H, though it applies mostly to other auto's, too:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...30generalt.pdf

It may not make much sense unless one knows enough about the unit assembly, but it's a starting point. Check that UJ first and go from there, eh.

 

Thanks for that info. These auto transmissions are very complicated, it can be very difficult to pin down specific problems.

I had the same symptoms with my SR5. Instead of replacing the CV boots(if they've been torn for awhile the CV joints might be shot), I bought two new axles for about $90 each at Schucks. That took care of the problem.