Ok here is the scenario, I got a 22r for my truck that is FI, so I swapped out all the appropriate stuff to make the motor run, put it in and timed it and it would run smoothly but started doing the white smoke HEAVILY out of the tailpipe.

So we obviously knew it was a head gasket, we fixed that, and now it appears to be pouring oil from someplace high on the block, and will backfire through the intake. I checked the oil filter and that isnt the problem (replaced 3 times in one day), and timed it the same way I did before. My buddy hooked up all of the vacuum lines could this make it backfire?

Lastly I had no oil leaks or anything before we changed the headgasket and now it pours from what looks like the lower intake. Any ideas would be helpful.

 

Backfiring through the intake, it sounds like the timing is out. Double check the timing again, its sounds like its off a tooth or 2. The oil leak, if its puddling up on the intake sounds like its either coming from the valve cover(wire or hose stuck in between seal and head?) or the head gasket itself. Did you cut the head and clean out the head bolt holes? It could also be the fuel pump block off plate or the oil pressure sender spraying oil upward.

 

Yes I cleaned off the head and block with a razor and hit it with brake cleaner to get any residue off. Come to think about it, that fuel pump block off plate could be the problem. Would it cause a SPRAY? of oil if not sealed. I think I saw a super small gap in there.

Can the timing chain slip off the bottom crank sprocket with the timing chain cover on? From what I remember it was so close in there that it looked like it couldnt move, is there a way to tell quickly in the timing chain is off by a tooth or two?

 

yes, the chain can come off the sprocket with the chain on. You can use your crank pulley marks to line up top dead center and check where your cam pulley is set at. Youll have to pull the valve cover off again though.

 

Ok, so once I get the valve cover off, I look at the cam pully which has a little dot on it where you line the lighter link on the chain, then do I just keep cranking it until the other link come up and put it on the dot too?

Or is there another way I should do this?

Thanks for you help by the way.

 

I dont think that the links match up for every time, I think the different links are just to set your cam timing when your doing the initial install. I am almost 100% positive that the lock pin in the cam and the dot on the pulley point straight up when its at top dead center. Your sure that the ignition timing is right? They can be a real pain sometimes to get right

 

see if you can start it and manually adjust the timing (if block is tdc on #1 and cam is closed on in/exh on cyl#1)
jumper the 2 pins and try to move the dist by hand until it is sounds good.
also did you put the rtv sealant at the front of the HG where the head meets the timing cover?

 

No, and I can see where the oil is coming out a little bit, I will have to RTV that tonight. As mentioned above since I converted this to FI, and that fuel pump block plate isnt gasketed will that be enough to have oil comeing out of it pretty good?

 

This is a dumb question but what is the difference from regular timing and ignition timing? We had the cam pully marked and the chain pulled tight and marked so we would know where to put it, could i just take the valve cover off and turn the crank enough to move the chain a tooth in front or behind where it is now to see what happens??