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New rebuild wont start

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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:14 PM
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New rebuild wont start

Ok so this is my first post maybe someone can help. After sitting for over a year I have just finished completely rebuilding (new crank linebored mains, trued rods, bored 0.50mm) my 22re-turbo and now it dosent want to start. I have checked the timing, compression, it has spark and will run on eather. The fuel pump is running i can bypass and make it run constantly. the truck will try to start but never gets over a thousand rpms and if you touch the accelerator it dies immedieatly. i have also made sure of the basics it has gas (lol) any help
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:17 PM
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I'd be aiming at vacuum leaks first.
all the intake ducting hooked up?
oh, and you got the valves adjusted?
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:24 PM
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all the vacum lines are good and hooked up (labeler helped with that) and yes valves were all adjusted and the compression is good
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:26 PM
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if its not a vacum leak then check your Circuit opening relay...

does it like start for a couple seconds then die...or just wont start at all
?
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:27 PM
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sometimes it starts for a couple seconds then dies other times it just cranks
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:28 PM
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double check the wiring to your injectors?
throttle position sensor and air flow meter connected?

and why did you rebuild it?
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:29 PM
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and what is the circuit open relay and where is it? are you talking about the fuel pump relay?
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:30 PM
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yep triple checked all hooked up
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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if it won't run with the fuel pump jumpered, it's not likely the circuit opening relay

does the vane inside the air flow meter move easily? you may have to lift it up and stick your finger in from the air filter side.

when the engine dies, do you get any backfire?
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:37 PM
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oh, and dumb question- all the fuses are good?
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:41 PM
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fuses are good and you can hear the vane opening well actually closing when it dies and no backfire really to speak of. i was considering a new fuel pump maybe the old one isn't making enough pressure for it to run
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:47 PM
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so you can get it running on ether... so at least you have some spark
it will sometimes start on it's own, othertimes not. jumpering the fuel pump doesn't influence when it will or won't start.
when it is running, opening the throttle causes it to die
could be a fuel delivery issue- low pump volume or pressure for instance
could be electronics- tps or afm out of spec

what was the reason for rebuilding it?
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:48 PM
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https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-help-155705/


read that thread a bit, and try jumping the cor conectors.
The COR is behing the pass side kick pannel a little above the ECU
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:55 PM
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thanks for the help guys will try that in the morning and the reason for the rebuild was #2 rod bearing spun and it had 187k on it so while out for the crank i just did it all. and it drove into the shop about a month ago thats what is so aggrivating
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 11:00 PM
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only other things I can suggest at the moment are cam and ignition timing, and double check the connections around the ignitor and coil
but you may give these a check:
throttle position sensor check: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml
air flow meter check: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 11:01 PM
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oh an I know the COR is working because i have cracked the cold start relay and when i crank it fuel sprays out
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 11:01 PM
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Is the AFM plugged in? Happened to me.
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 11:02 PM
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I am going to try a pressure test on it if i can find someone with a gauge and fittings that will work
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 11:03 PM
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yep AFM plugged in
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 11:05 PM
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Cor has nothing to do with cold start.
sorta

The COR esentially open the circuit that grounds the fuel pump to the AFM and keeps it running after those few seconds
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