I just put in some OME 1.5" springs/shocks in the rear and now it sits a little higher than the front. I am only looking to raise the front a half inch at the most so I figure cranking the bars a tiny bit wont hurt assuming I get an alignment. Does anyone have any advice or opinions on doing this?? I know its not good for the front but I dont intend to crank them very much. Also I have never done this before so any advice on how to properly adjust them would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

measure from the top of each front rim (or from the top of the tire) to the fender lip.
crank the bars to raise the truck by the required amount.
roll the truck forwards and backwards a few feet each time you adjust the bars in order to settle the suspension and remove any tire/sidewall influence on the adjustment.
you may find it easier (but overall more work) to jack the truck up by the frame and make small adjustments to the bars since it removes the weight of the truck from them.

 

If you only want to crank them a 1/2 inch you will be fine. Its only a problem when people crank them 1" or more, then your ride goes down the toilet.

Go under your truck, find the torsion bars (on the frame rails). Follow them to the middle of the truck. You will find the adjuster nut. Get all the crud off of it with a wire brush, hit it with some penetrent lube. Let it sit... Jack the front of the truck up till the wheels are 1/2" off the ground. Adjust the nut till the wheels are touching the ground. Lower the truck, bounce on the front end a few times and measure to make sure you are at your desired height...

You shouldnt need an alignment after a 1/2" adjustment. If you do, you probibly only really need to adjust the toe. You can do that yourself

 

Bah, crank those tbars a good 2". Everyone knows your tires grip better in the mud when they sit like this / /---\ \

 

bad swampthingy.

 

I suggest the jack under the frame. More work, but generally those bolts are rusted a good bit, and the easier you can make them to turn, the happier you'll be. LOL

 

Ok so I just went and sprayed with some WD40 and I tried cranking them, they loosened up but then I noticed the nut on top of the bolt is turning with the bolt so I think its not actually doing anything. I tried holding it with a wrench but was unable to get the bolt to turn. Im not sure if my bolt and nut are shot or do I just really need to pry on the thing to get it to turn?? P.S thanks for the help everyone.

 

wd40 won't do much. Trust me Go to crappy tire and get some PB blaster or liquid wrench. Some people have to replace the torsion bar hardware because they are just too rusty...

 

fixed it for ya!~

 

yeah, that works too!

 

If the nut on top is spinning then you are in need of a new bolt from the dealership.

This article might help:

http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/Su...tegoryId=11288

 

i am thinking about doing this as well. my friend just got a new 2" suspension lift for the rear and he is giving me his coil springs, spacers, shocks and brake line extension. my truck sags pretty bad as it is now, so i figured i shouldnt have to mess with my torsion bars too much, but does anyone have any do's or don'ts when it comes to cranking on them?? thanks, don't mean to take your thread, just figured this thread was here, so why start a new one. thanks in advance for any advice.....Brian

 

Just don't "crank" them over an inch or so. I personally wouldnt go more then a half inch. Beyond that I think its worth it to invest in bj spacers.

 

I have a similar problem. I'm riding a stock 2wd with new shocks all the way around. Now the rear sits 1-1/2" higher then the front. can I get that much out of cranking down on the torsion adjuster bolt? I need some suggestions. I don't drive off road so I don't think I need heavy duty torsion bars.

S

 

Buy 1.5" bj spacers. They will lift the front end and keep the suspension stock. 100x better then cranking the t-bars..

 

that bit won't work - if the tires are off the ground, the control arms are already against the droop stop and won't go down

find a level surface and measure from the top of the rim to the fender lip on both sides or from the ground to the bottom of the frame rail under the control arm

 

i am pretty sure with as much sag as my rearend has i won't need to adjust my torsion bars over an inch...thanks for the advice!!

 

OK so I cant get mine to crank. I guess I need a new bolt and nut but this doesnt really make sense to me. How would the nut not want to turn with the bolt unless it was welded to the frame or something? Apparently its supposed to not turn as you crank the bolt. Can one of you guys let me know if you are able to crank yours fine and if the nut turns or stays fixed when u turn the bolt? Also how hard is it to crank yours? Maybe im still not giving it enough guff but Im cranking pretty damn hard. Maybe my nut is just rusted to the bolt and I need to buy new ones. Hope not...

 

As stated above: The top nut should never spin. If the bolts have proper lube they should be easy to rotate. I could turn mine in either direction with one hand - and I am not a buff dude

I don't have diagrams of the assembly so I cannot speak up on why yours isn't working.

 

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...29torsionb.pdf