I thought the torque converter was making all the noise, but it looks like it's the tranny itself. Something in the front near the torque converter (oil pump?). Anyway, it sounds like a diesel clattering at idle. I think the 340 has broken something inside. #@$%#$%#$%!.

I'm in no mood to tear into the 340 tranny again. I'm considering going for a manual swap and be done with it. I'm curious how much that typically costs. I know a bunch of people have done it.

 

i just did mine about 2 weeks ago best mod i ever did and very easy just time consuming

cost breakdown

tranny/tcase/x-member/flywheel bolts - $125 at pick-n-pull
new clutch kit and new flywheel - $150
clutch lines/slave/master - $20 at pick-n-pull
pedal assembly - $20 at pick-n pull

total = $315
took 3 days working in between rainstorms

and oo the power difference!

 

Did it really make that much difference in driveability?

I'm also curious about whether the drive shafts are reusable. I've heard differing opinions on that.

Also, what did you use to make the holes for the clutch master cylinder and shift linkages? I'm assuming the center console gets replaced as well if you want to finish it out.

 

I'm guessing by your user name you have a 22RE, not the V6, but is there an issue with the ECU on the 4-Cyl?

 

drivability is night and day, pulls hills at a decent speed & rpm, i went from 18 mpg to 22+, and it keeps up with traffic

i did reuse my stock shaft, it is a bit short, but useable in a stock height (or sagged in my case) truck, i'd get the shaft from the stick

for the holes i just lined up the pedal assembly out of the stick, and used a drill and regular drill bits to make the holes for the m/c, once that was in, a
1 1/4" hole saw bit was used to make the larger center hole, and yes the center console gets changed, along with making a larger hole in the floor for the shifters

yes i have the 22RE, no auto ECU problems what so ever, only wiring i did was used a 4" peice of wire with spade plugs on the end and crossed the neutral safety switch, she fired right up no codes, not ck engine lights, nothing, just runs like it did with the auto

 

What was wrong with it before? Did you rebuild it?

I would recommend buying a "donor" truck. Makes the swap 10x easier if you have all the parts there and can see how it goes together.....

 

My 4R was dead when I bought it. It was a restoration project. I did a full frame-off rebuild. The previous owner was trying to convert it to a turbo 22RE and really messed things up. As a result, everything was disassembled and inspected/rebuilt/replaced including the tranny.

The tranny was cleaned and rebuilt with new friction plates, seals, and a reman torque converter. It had 750 trouble-free miles on it. What seems to have happened is that something let loose when I was doing a series of 0-60 tests. The odd part is that it's still shifting just fine. It's just really noisy at idle. It doesn't matter if it's in gear or not so based on the apparent noise location and the fact the gear position doesn't matter, it seems that something is wrong with the input shaft -- either the bearings or the oil pump.

Finding a donor vehicle would be nice, but older 4Rs are actually rather rare around here.

 

Will the trannies from the 2nd gens 4Rs or pickups fit? 1st gens are rare here.

 

true on the first gens being rare here, ive seen 4 in the 4 years ive been here.

if you need an extra hand let me know, ill be willing to help, im no master mechanic, but im down for whatever.

 

I can't see a problem with using a second gen. The tranny is the same (W56) and I am sure you could make the other parts work. The drive shafts might be longer, not sure, but I think the wheel base is longer on the second gens.

 

i wasnt too sure
but, same engines, same trannys ??

yeaa

 

Prolly, but not necessarily. They may be the some model tranny, but there's always the chance that the gear ratios or mounting hard points may have moved. It doesn't hurt to check.

 

Gearing should be the same, the difference is in the final drive ratio in the axels. You might be lucky and have 4.88s, but more than likely 4.30. The mounting points are a good point but I think it might only be a small braket difference. I can't see them casting a new case.

 

I did a write up about my 5spd swap that might be able to help you.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...riteup-146085/

 

I got 4.30s. What was standard for the 5speed? I'm thinking it was 4.10s.

 

Hmm, your write-up mentions problems with the drive shafts not fitting. Is this because you were trying to use the one from a pickup or is it because the flanges different between the auto and manual?

 

there is different flanges between the years, but that was an easy fix. My problem was because I have an extended cab, and there is more than one driveshaft for those. The standard cab pickups and 4 runners all use the same driveshaft from what I have seen, which is why most 4runner swaps can keep the original.

 

A swap sounds rather straight forward. Rounding up the parts looks like the hard part. Fortunately, I have another vehicle I can drive while the 4R is down so there's no rush. I've actually did this once before on my old TransAm a long time ago.

I just wish I knew what the hell went out in the auto. I've been looking at the FSM and there really isn't much that can fail up front to make that kind of noise without scattering the gears.

 

Hmmm, I climbed underneath with a different stethoscope setup and narrowed the sound down to the rear main bearing area. I'm starting to wonder if it's the flex plate. Anyone have any experience with a noisy flex plate?

I'm going to pull the tranny back off and check the flex plate and maybe remove the rear main seal to see if the rear main bearing is loose. (I loctited those in with the red stuff. I can't believe they may have come loose.)

 

I have a '94 22re and I don't think it would be possible to do the swap without changing the ECU and the wiring harness. My transmission plugs into the same ECU that controls the engine. You would have several wires not sending any info to the ECU and setting off trouble codes I would think. Anyone done this on a later model truck?