I recently swapped over a 5spd into my 91 sr5. For a couple of months before the swap I couldnt find any real answers to the questions I had, and made a couple mistakes. I will provide a parts list of what was required for my swap, and the wiring needed to start your truck.

Parts:
88 r150f tranny and tcase from bristol tenn....nice drive up too $175
along with the transmission came the crossmember, slave and master cylinder.

marlin crawler clutch kit $200+ pressure plate bolts $9
clutch lines, hard and soft $5 from junkyard. Mine came from an 85 2wd, so im sure all will work.
5spd pedals, $35.
shifter boots and console cover $50
flywheel new and bolts $70
rear driveshaft from extended cab 5spd truck $50



The removal and installation process is pretty straight forward. I didnt run into any hiccups and had the old transmission out and new in around 5 hours by myself. I did find that my driveshaft would not work, so I purchased a correct piece. I then ran into the flange problem with the older transmission. To correct the flanges, I removed the transfercase output flange and redrilled it to fit the driveshaft. Worked pretty good so far,I used a spacer I had laying around to get the holes lined up where they need to be. Make sure the pilot bearing is pressed all the way in, and you have the correct bolts for the flywheel. The front driveshaft will work in pretty much all cases ive seen, since you can slide the shafts apart and mix and match.

The pedals where a little different. The automatic pedal assembly has holes stamped out for a clutch pedal, so I thought to use that as my template. Cutting the holes out of the firewall went relatively easy, I did have to remove the speaker panel. I remove the auto pedals and attempt to install the 5spd set when come to find out there is about a 1'' difference of the clutch pedal location. Instead of cutting more holes into the firewall, I modified the auto set. It required cutting out the spot welds holding the clutch pedal and brackets on, and the studs off the 5spd set and welding them onto the location of the auto pedal. The brake pedals were an easy swap, just a single bolt and your done. I soon found out that having the clutch pedal over about an inch to the left from stock works very well for someone 6'' and above like myself, the knees are moved out from under the steering column to a rather comfortable position. I will post pics of the process once I am finished with the writeup.

the two pedal assemblies

clutch pedal and bracket removed

the blank area where it will go

the auto brake pedal removed

the studs welded in for the master cylinder to mount to

everything all swapped over and welded up

finished and in the truck








That about covers the basics of the swap I ran into. The electrical was a little different, and I have downloaded tons of schematics to search every wire. Basically to get the truck to run again, you have to connect the two ground wires on the park switch from the auto harness. They are most commonly black, or black/white as in was my case. The rest of the wires on the harness can be capped off, or if you want to run reverse lights you will have to jump one of them to the position switch off the transmission. I dont care much about them so i just capped all the wires off. As far as add, it was never hooked up in my truck when I got it so I didnt worry about that either.

I will post up some links that came in useful for me as well as anything else I am missing as soon as I get to my other computer.

 

GREAT!!! sounds good

 

hows that marlin clutch? was is the super heavy duty one?

 

I just got the regular, i didnt see a need for the heavy duty one in my setup yet. But the clutch feels great and works great so far, one of few clutches ive had with such a light pedal but awesome holding power.

 

Great thread.
Im looking into a 5speed swap for my turbo

 

I didn't see any mention of the location of the hole in the trans tunnel for the shifters. In fact I don't have any idea how the automatic shifters go through the floor. Did you have to do any cutting or welding to get that done and get the boot to seal nicely? Fantastic write-up on the pedal assembly though. -- Matt

 

Ah. I knew I was forgetting things. yes, the trans tunnel had to be opened up some more for the manual shifters, no welding is needed for this swap however. The automatic shifters have a smaller and slighty odd shaped hole already in the trans tunnel for the mechanical linkage to the trans and transfer case. The best way to get the hole correct is to buy the 5spd boots and mounting plate and use that as a template to cut the hole to proper size. The automatic shifters come out relatively easy, you have about 6-8 bolts and some wire harness' to disconnect, as well as the cotter pin on the linkage that connects to the tranny.

 

Nice, you answered a few of my questions. Did you need to use the 5 speed crossmember or could you have used the original one? Also when you said your driveshaft wouldn't work, is it because you had a 2 piece in the rear, or was it just because of the flanges? Will the flanges from the auto work on the tcase for the manual case? I also don't see any mention of a slave bracket, did you fab one or get it at a junkyard?

 

i got the trans with crossmember, transfercase, and clutch fork all together. you will need one from a trans. the crossmembers are different. my driveshaft was too short, and the transfercase flange was a a different bolt pattern. Since I was two states away for training while I was doing the swap, I bought a driveshaft spacer to get me by till I pieced longer unit. To solve the transfercase output flange I used the spacer to drill the correct holes in the flange and bolted up the longer 5spd driveshaft once I found it. The extended cab's do have the 2 piece driveshaft, and the autos are too short, I am unsure of the one piece driveshafts. I did try to swap the output flanges but they were different splines.

 

Thanks for the reply and the writeup. Another question. Were you able to re-use all the bellhousing bolts?

 

i was able to reuse all the bolts except for the flywheel.

 

Including the top two on the bell? I have heard that the bolts for the original 5spd truck were needed.

Also, where did you get the flywheel bolts? dealer?

Great write-up btw

 

I'm wondering about the flywheel bolts too. Marlin has a set of pressure plate bolts but nothing listed for flywheel bolts. I don't want to go to the dealer on them if possible because it seems like a lot of money for some bolts but I do know they need to be the right bolt at the same time.

And I need to gloat for a minute, woot woot I'm picking up my 5 speed w/t-case, shifters, clutch fork and bellhousing on friday. Looks like I might be able to get my 5 speed in at the same time of the new (to me) motor. I might have just jinxed myself though haha. I took a good hard look at my pedal set yesterday and it looks like it will be pretty straight forward. I might just put in the pedal set and the master/slave and plumbing before I drop my truck off at my mechanics shop. I wish I had more time, tools and a flat spot to do all this myself but motor installs intimidate the crap out of me and I hate pulling/installing transmissions as well.

 

ok, all the bellhousing bolts were the same. there where some that didnt line up, but that was for the scattershield on the bottom that covers the flywheel. that was an easy fix, i just redrilled the plate a little so i could stuff some bolts in there.

The flywheel to crank bolts I got used with the pedal set. I bought new pressure plate bolts with the marlin clutch set. You WILL need 5spd flywheel bolts, new or used.


I actually drove around with the pedals in the truck completed for a week before I did the swap, alot easier to separate the tasks. Congrats on the goods man, its really not as intimidating as it looks. Also if you do it yourself, you'll have more confidence and knowledge to work on more.

 

As far as hobbies go, that's what I live for. Push the envelope and pretty soon you're buying a welder! A tube bender! A lathe. A press. A big compressor, Impact tools, ect., ect.. I can't think of too many better ways to spend money. -- Matt

 

very cool. Im 5 spd swapping mine this saturday. I too just put my pedals in as well. It took me 4.5 hours to get hte things in. That freaking sucked!

Hopfully ill be getting my driveshaft tomorrow. I cant wait to get this thing
done and in my truck.

Im going to have a 3.0/R150F/5.29s/33" tires. I think its going to scoot pretty good

 

Agreed when it comes to doing it myself but I really don't have the tools or the space and would like it moving asap. I used to work for my mechanic so he helps me out a little bit on labor and gives me cost on parts. He will likely be working on my truck on a weekend because he tries to pull his full $65/hr during normal work hours so I will probably be there helping/learning from him. I did also learn a lot from him previously because he helped me build an 80 pickup with efi/5 speed swap etc. but I can't utilize that knowledge without his shop, and when it comes to everything involved with installing an engine, I just want it done right.

 

besides something to cut the trans tunnel, there was no special tools needed for this swap. you can even cut the tunnel with tin snips its so thin. Everything was pretty much just basic metric sockets, 8-20mm.

 

I'm probably going to keep dragging this thread out of the past until I get all the parts on my grocery list. I apologize. Flywheel question. Are they all the same from 84-95 when it comes to a 22re w/ manual transmission?

 

ya i ran into the same prob with the pedals but the set i got was too long. the set you got was too short. you have a 3rd gen i have 2nd the 3 gen pedals what i got were too long wat you got were 2nd gen pedals i had to go back to the junk yard to get 2nd gen pedals cause the 3rd would not fit under my dash