Quick update on my "Gauntlet" build. So far money has been so tight that I only just today got the 4.56 thirds at the house. I'm ordering my Aussie on Friday and hope to have it installed in the rear carrier before the weekend of the 4th. Then I'm dropping the rig off to a mechanic friend who's going to install the thirds for me.

I still need to pick up some rock armor since my welder bailed on me then all I need is the Marlin gears, a set of low profile bump stops (easy to do) and shocks. Then it's off to the mountains.

Oh and on a side note I've been told, by the same guy who started all this no less, that the only time you need to air down is for sand.

And I quote. "Airing down in rocks is pointless. You're not going to get any better traction with flat tires than you would with inflated ones on rocks. Everybody knows this."

I'll post up again later when I make more headway.

 

"Airing down in rocks is pointless. You're not going to get any better traction with flat tires than you would with inflated ones on rocks. Everybody knows this."


your friend is misinformed

 

um if you air down to about 8-10 psi you have alot better traction on rocks then you do with 40psi come on now everyone kows this

 

you took off the sway bar right? and trim the rear bumps for a lil more flex

 

I'm a little worried about removing the sway bar since this is my daily driver.

Rear bump trim huh? Didn't know that one but I'm on it now.

 

[QUOTE=Junkers88;50859895]I'm a little worried about removing the sway bar since this is my daily driver.

You will be suprised how little difference removing the front swaybar makes in everyday driving.

I removed the one on my 4runner a couple of months ago and can't tell much difference.

Robb

 

yea i tossed mine a while ago at least take it off when wheeling

 

I just take one bolt off and leave it off all summer long. I put it back on after the last trip to Moab in October. It doesn't take too long to do and is the same effect as completely removing the anti-sway bar.

 

So I can drop the sway bar and not have any ill effects? Sweet!!! Less weight and more flex!

 

You couldn`t be more wrong, every wheeler that rock crawles his rig knows that you definatly get better traction when you air down on rocks..

 

What was the result?

 

I don't think it's ever going to happen. He can't seem to find the time to go or the money for fuel..........

 

You friend drives a Jeep doesnt he?

First thing I did when I got my truck was throw the sway bar in the trash....

Just dont drive it like a race car! It's a truck.

 

Yup. He's got his 2005 Rubicon sitting in the parking lot right now. *shrug* No worries, he motivated me to get my rig finished and it's dang near done now.

I'm still kicking around the sway bar idea.

 

I am soo ripping my sway bar off this afternoon....... I too was a little skeptical but hey what the heck if I dont dig it its only four bolts. AND HECK YES YOU NEED TO AIR DOWN> Think about the footprint of a flatter tire vs a aired up 40psi tire much bigger and MUCH softer = BETTER GRIP.

 

Uh huh

So he buys a built jeep that gets terrible mileage, and now can't afford to wheel it. Methinks he bought it for looks, perhaps he's forgetting the the image isn't quite that of the tough guy.

 

I found a pic of your buddies Rubi!

 

^^lol^^

 

Here is a good thread about swaybar removal.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f31/...-stupid-63364/

In the end I decided to leave it on. I'm not trying to start a discussion of this here. Save it for the linked thread. I just want you to know about it, let you read it and then come to your own decision about the value of swaybar removal. There are thoughtful arguements both for and against in the thread I linked. Also note, that nobody got pissed or bent or rude in the thread. It is a solid, useful discussion. Hope it helps.

 

Sshaefer's comment is wrong. That is factually incorrect. A swaybar is a piece of metal shaped like this [ . It is made of spring steel and is connected to the frame in the middle and to each suspension arm at the ends. When one of the ends is pushed upwards (suspension compressed), the SB transmits part of that force to the opposite wheel. Effectively, with a swaybar, you have semi-independent front suspension as the sway bar connects both A arms together. Thus the A arm on one side can't compress without the other slightly compressing as well. The same is true for extension (droop). This inhibits flex for the axle that it is placed upon. End of argument.

However, you don't only have one axle flexing. Both axles work together to articulate over bumps. Dues to the configuration of our trucks, front IFS and rear solid axle, they don't flex very well. The rear flexes hugely, while the front just doesn't. Thus the body motion is almost entirely determined by the front wheels. The rear sway bar opposes the rear flexing, and actually forces the front to flex a little. I drove around a little without a rear swaybar, and overall suspension flexed less and the body had more lean and the handling was weird. With no front swaybar however, the rear is more able to force the front to flex, thus the truck's suspension is more balanced and the truck flexes better.