I dread changing the oil on my 4runner because it makes such a mess. If the dealer does it it is even more of a mess. I stumbled on a way to change the oil filter with minimal spills and wanted to share the technique with everyone.

Maybe all of you know this already, but here goes . . . First, you have to remove the skid plate. No big deal, just pull the bolts out.

The key to getting the oil filter off without spilling is to go SLOW.

In the past I've tried everything to not spill including plastic bags, tipping the filter as fast as I could, punching a hole in the filter, etc. None of these techniques worked.

If you place your drain pan directly under the filter, then remove the filter in several slow steps, you won't have much if any oil to clean off the front suspension, etc. because the oil drips straight down. About five quarter inch turns lets the oil out slow and then you can remove the filter without any spilling out. Take a min. or two break between each turn.

Let us know if you use this technique and it works. I'm 1 for 1 and I don't dread the oil change anymore.

We'll see if it works for me again in a few months.

 

Cool!!!
I will try this idea next time I change my oil.

 

"...place your drain pan directly under the filter..."? On my 2000, there is an awful lot of "stuff" between the bottom of the filter and the nearest place beneath that a pan would fit.

My next oil change will include a funnel with a length of tube so it drains into the pan. It's always been a pain, even with my old '90.

Any other good ideas?

 

You don't have to drop the skid at all to change the filter. You can gain access through the drivers fender well.

Just pull back the rubber fender liner to the left side of the upper A-arm and you'll see the filter

 

I've had good luck with squeezing a Cool-Whip container under the filter. I have experienced minimal if any spillage. A little tricky getting it out but it works for me.

 

Another trick to make your life simpler is to remove the skid plate in one piece. Don't take out the two bolts that hold the front and rear halves of the skid plate together. Just take out the seven bolts that hold the skid plate to the truck. Makes on and off much easier.

 

I have a container beneath the oil filter. Then I wrap tin foil over the parts that oil will drip on. Afterwards just remove and throw out.

 

Well . . .I didn't remove the skid plate to get access to the filter but to keep the oil from dripping all over the inside of the skid plate, etc.

There is alot of stuff under the oil filter, but I found these slow quarter turns means the oil drips perfectly down a small open space to the catch pan.

As for the funnell, sounds good but I can't imagine there is much room.

 

I will try those techniques next time. To me, the oil filter on the 3.4 is so hard to remove and install. The 4.0 is much and much easier! Lucky the 4th generation owners!

Nam

 

If you remove the skid plate at every oil change its a good idea to replace the bolts with regular SS one from Lowes, Home Depot etc. The original bolts are self tapping and will eventually screw the threaded inserts up. It is only about $2 to replace all bolts/washers with stainless.

 

Good to Know about the bolts. Do you have the exact size I should buy? I've been getting replacement bolts from Toyota and on my rig there is a welded nut behind each bolt. Is that self-tapping? I'm a bit confused on the self-tapping thing

 

mgspann,
Take one of the bolts out and take it to Lowes. Go into the screw dept. There is a board with a bunch of threaded holes. Put your skidplate screw into the right size hole for diameter. I think its either M6 or M8. I got bolts that were about an inch long. I will see if I still have the bag for the correct size when I get home. They fit 2nd and 3rd gen. As far as the self tapping part goes, there is a notch on the side of the bolt and the end is tapered( it looks like a tap). Whenever it is screwed in, it digs into the threaded insert. I think the reason these screws are used is for ease of assembly. If there is any crap in the holes during vehicle assembly, the screws will cut right through. I originally found this out on my 94. The holes almost look stripped from repeated in and out during oil changes. This is especially a problem when places like Jiffy Screw change your oil. They will use air powered tools. If the screw is slighly cocked, the air tool will drive it in that way.

 

Ahhh . . . I got it now. Thanks for the tip Highland Runner!!

 

Anyone have any luck with remote filter kits on 3rd gen trucks?
I hate getting oil all over and would love to locate the filter further back towards the firewall or mounted to the frame rail. Let's hear what you guys are using if any?

 

mgspann,
Here is the sizes of bolts: M8-1.25 x 30 MM 5 for$1.29(#136855), washers 5/16 5 for$.77(#35116), lock washers M8 5 for $1.27(#59406). Those are Lowes item #'s. They all come in packages of 5 so it cost about $5 to do both my Runners.

 

Highland Runner - thanks so much! I really appreciate the information.

Have a good one,
Graham

 

There are 5 bolts to remove if you don't remove the middle ones holding the 2 pieces together, correct?

 

I like the cool-whip container idea...I just use the top cut-out of a gallon plastic milk jug, turned upside down, and kinda wedged in there, then aim the spout so it drips where you want it to...

Thanks for the bolt-tip highland runner.

John

 

I know my setup is a little different with my 2.7 but it should work about the same. I got tired of taking off the skid plates too so I did what Rick said he was gonna do I just found a ~6-8 round funnel and a peice of garden hose and cut the funnel spout so that I can push the hose up on it tight. Then just finagle the funnel underneath the filter and run the hose down into the drain pan. Saves alotta time and hassle and no clean up

 

I gave up on removing the skidplate -- takes too long.

Instead, I cram the area below the filter with disposable towel(blue ones), pull the filter and whatever I miss, I clean up with engine degreaser. Once the truck is all done, I spray a good amount of degreaser on the skidplate and affected areas and hose it off. Works like a charm.