Rattle/Clicking from Front End
#1
Rattle/Clicking from Front End
When I turn either direction at low speeds I hear a rattle/clicking noise coming from the front end(wheel area). None of the vehicles I've had have ever had the bearings go out, and I know a whole lot of nothing about birfields. I know I don't have cv's, but for comparison it is nowhere near as loud as the clicking a cv axle makes when going out. So I was wondering if someone may have a suggestion of what could be the problem, or what I do to check the for various problems.
#2
Rattle/Clicking from Front End
Hey guys, I haven't had any luck in the general vehicle section, so I will try it here.
When I turn either direction at low speeds I hear a rattle/clicking noise coming from the front end(wheel area). None of the vehicles I've had have ever had the bearings go out, and I know a whole lot of nothing about birfields. I know I don't have cv's, but for comparison it is nowhere near as loud as the clicking a cv axle makes when going out. So I was wondering if someone may have a suggestion of what could be the problem, or what I do to check the for various problems.
Thanks for any help
When I turn either direction at low speeds I hear a rattle/clicking noise coming from the front end(wheel area). None of the vehicles I've had have ever had the bearings go out, and I know a whole lot of nothing about birfields. I know I don't have cv's, but for comparison it is nowhere near as loud as the clicking a cv axle makes when going out. So I was wondering if someone may have a suggestion of what could be the problem, or what I do to check the for various problems.
Thanks for any help
#3
Jack it up and wiggle the wheel around while looking for play in the suspension/steering system. It usually works. Hope this helps.
#4
My stock birfields in my 84 had a major click on the drivers side during every rotation. I took them out to replace with 30 spline Longfields. I inspected them after removal and they had a spot in them that was sticky and hard to turn. They were 20+ years old with little to no maintenance so it didn't surprise me
#5
Well, I jacked up my truck and tried shaking the tires and all the steering components; no unusual play anywhere. Then I spun the wheel and there my noise was. I took the wheel off and both pins for the brake pads are halfway out and shaped like an L; same problem on other side. Just to make sure this was what was causing the noise I was hearing I took the pins out and spun the wheels, no noise. I don't know why I only heard it (or heard it better) when turning? Does anyone know which parts store may keep the pins and retainer wire/spring thing in stock? Autozone says online only.
#6
Well, I jacked up my truck and tried shaking the tires and all the steering components; no unusual play anywhere. Then I spun the wheel and there my noise was. I took the wheel off and both pins for the brake pads are halfway out and shaped like an L; same problem on other side. Just to make sure this was what was causing the noise I was hearing I took the pins out and spun the wheels, no noise. I don't know why I only heard it (or heard it better) when turning? Does anyone know which parts store may keep the pins and retainer wire/spring thing in stock? Autozone says online only.
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#8
#9
Well, I decided to go hunting to find the pins, I first went to Advance Auto, none in stock. Then to NAPA, they closed at 1:00, I got there at about 1:15. Then AutoZone, out of stock, but the one in the next town had 3 sets, so I go there, turns out they only have 1 set, next town has 1 set so I go there. So it took me 5 auto parts stores to buy 4 little pins. Atleast my annoying rattle is gone now.
#10
Ticking/Rattling from engine?
Just today I started getting a ticking/rattling sound from my engine. Truck is an '84 with 22R. It only happens at very slight throttle; idling=no noise, reved past about 1700 rpm=no noise.
Is this the dreaded timing chain or ?
Thanks
Is this the dreaded timing chain or ?
Thanks
#11
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
From: Land Of The Lollipop Kids (Lancaster,Pa).
Welcome to the world of Yota's. get used to that sound...hahahaha.
Srry bro,just had to throw in their. Not sure what you're sound is. I try to hear past my valves chattering....
Um j/k,but why not put some bigger tires on that little bitty engine. I'm sure that sound will soon disappear!
:>)
Srry bro,just had to throw in their. Not sure what you're sound is. I try to hear past my valves chattering....
Um j/k,but why not put some bigger tires on that little bitty engine. I'm sure that sound will soon disappear!
:>)
Last edited by dutchboy; Jun 28, 2008 at 03:26 PM.
#12
Welcome to the world of Yota's. get used to that sound...hahahaha.
Srry bro,just had to throw in their. Not sure what you're sound is. I try to hear past my valves chattering....
Um j/k,but why not put some bigger tires on that little bitty engine. I'm sure that sound will soon disappear!
:>)
Srry bro,just had to throw in their. Not sure what you're sound is. I try to hear past my valves chattering....
Um j/k,but why not put some bigger tires on that little bitty engine. I'm sure that sound will soon disappear!
:>)
#13
Here is an easy way to tell.
Put a breaker bar with a 19mm socket on the crank pully bolt, and take the distributor cap off.
Turn the breaker bar clockwise, and watch the distributor turn. take note of the breaker bar position.
Turn the breaker bar SLOWLY the opposite direction (counter clockwise obviously in this case) and take note of the breaker bar's position when the distributor starts turning again.
If there is a lot of "backlash" (meaning the breaker bar goes like 15-20 degrees rotation or so before the distributor turns back) then your timing chain and/or related components are likely worn out.
This is the simplest way to tell that I could figure out without cracking into it.
<edit> I am not sure what the acceptable value here is, but 20 degrees is quoted as being too much.. I'd say 10 degrees would even be leaning towards the worrisome line, but what do I know?
Put a breaker bar with a 19mm socket on the crank pully bolt, and take the distributor cap off.
Turn the breaker bar clockwise, and watch the distributor turn. take note of the breaker bar position.
Turn the breaker bar SLOWLY the opposite direction (counter clockwise obviously in this case) and take note of the breaker bar's position when the distributor starts turning again.
If there is a lot of "backlash" (meaning the breaker bar goes like 15-20 degrees rotation or so before the distributor turns back) then your timing chain and/or related components are likely worn out.
This is the simplest way to tell that I could figure out without cracking into it.
<edit> I am not sure what the acceptable value here is, but 20 degrees is quoted as being too much.. I'd say 10 degrees would even be leaning towards the worrisome line, but what do I know?
#14
I believe that you are spot on; your description sounds like the timing chain/guides/tensioner. Just pop the valve cover and eyeball it. I'm guessing that your driver side guide is disintegrated.
#15
Damn, thats what I was afraid of. Oh well, I'll take a look at it when I get off work tomorrow. Anything wrong with the $50 timing set from AutoZone?
#16
#17
Double-row conversions are not the "same price from the same store"! And, the 'Zone shows $87.88, in norcal, with Kragen coming in at $43.99. I like mizumoauto (ebay) for timing kits!
#18
check out http://www.engnbldr.com/ than at least you know you will get the right parts and quality parts instead of some random POS part. He has a great reputation on this forum..
engnbldr on ebay.com
engnbldr on ebay.com
#19
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...C-36DAAF7F3DBC
#20
I really suggest getting a oem kit, if you buy those crappy kit with the cork gaskets, you're asking for soon trouble. Buy all OEM gaskets then go with a NAPA kit. They're cheap enough and any dealership can get you the stock gaskets. Original toyota stuff lasts the longest.


