I don't post here a lot, but this seems to have the best info/writeups on 3.4 swaps, so I'll add my own. I'll be adding pictures as I go.

So basically I have an 87 4x4 Prerunner/race truck project with a tired carbed 22r. I decided rather than rebuilding the engine that I would just go all out and put a 5vz in it. I also have a 95 Tacoma with a 3.4 that I've had for 6+ years so I know how great this motor is.

This isn't the usual swap into a stock truck with stock instrumentation looking for a factory fit. I don't have a/c, heat, interior, or stock gauges. It will all be autometer type gauges, plus a bunch of accesories (lights, radio, etc). So since I despise wiring and since the stock wiring in my truck is mediocre, I think I'll just have ORS do a stand alone harness for me. Should give me less headaches. I also have all the stock sheetmetal from the firewall forward cut off. I'm going to be doing a custom engine cage running a long travel kit with a lift spindle (so no more 4x4). This means I have to do custom mounting for everything, including relocating the battery to the bed area.

I do have a few questions though. First of all, is there any reason to not use the stock 3.4 radiator setup? I'm doing a engine cage so mounting will be custom either way. I also no longer have the stock tank, but a 32 gal. Jaz fuel cell. Has anyone used a fuel cell setup on theirs? I want to find a reliable fuel delivery setup. Any other tips would be appreciated!

 

Here's the candidate, minus sheet metal:


Old drivetrain:


And this is what the rest of the truck looks like:


I also have a whole bunch of buildup pics of all the cagework if anyones interested.

Some specs on it so far: Deaver 62" leaf springs, SAW 18" shocks mounted outboard, Fox bumpstops, T100 axle with LSD and 4:88 gears, full cage firewall back, PRP seats, Jaz cell. Front will be a custom LT kit about 5" over with a lift spindle. Will also be upgrading to 35" tires.

 

Thats a very cool looking truck.

I think that the biggest deal with not using the taco radiator is the mounting and the overall size of it.

 

Thanks!

I'll meaure the radiator in my Taco tomorrow and see how well it will fit, should be fine. Thats a major perk of having the Taco right there, I can look to see how things go.

Hoping to have the new drivetrain this week or next...

 

I lived in Prescott for a few years while going to YC.

Nice to see another 22R to 3.4 swap writeup. That truck of your is going to represent for sure with all that additional HP.

 

Finally got a motor/tranny coming from Rancho trucks. Should be here next week. Also ordered up a bunch of goodies from ORS and Summit.

Only thing Im still not sure about is what radiator setup to run. Thinking like a 19h" x 22w" aluminum radiator with an electric fan. BTW, does anybody know the inlet and outlet sizes of the 3.4 motors?

I'll make sure I post pics when I get started...

 

Looking rather empty right now!



I have to fit the rad and fan behind the tubes. Not sure how much room there will be so I guess that'll dictate my setup...

 

Looks cool. I'll be taking notes also. So are you using the ORS mounts too? I think I'll end up runing an electric fan too. I'm not sure what I'll use yet, but I'll be checking in to see how yours turns out. Good luck!

 

Stock 3.0 rads work just fine.

 

Do they sit down in the frame, or on top of that crossmember?

And yeah, Im using the ORS mounts. I was going to build my own but got lazy and just bought them instead.

 

Motor and tranny showed up today! Need to pick up an engine stand so I can prep the motor. Still waiting on some stuff from ORS as well.

Motor is from a 99 with 83k miles.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../engine008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../engine009.jpg


Quick question, for those using aftermarket water temp gauge, where have you mounted the sender?

 

any updates??

 

Subscribed.

 

Im waiting on some more parts from Rancho Trucks to arrive today. I had some issues with missing parts and how the motor was pulled mostly, but Johnathan is taking care of it.

But tomorrow I am going to get the motor on the stand and change the timing belt/water pump/oil pan/flywheel/motor mounts and other small things during the week. Hopefully have the motor and tranny mocked up in the the truck by this weekend... Mike from ORS also called today to say I should have the harness next week.

 

So got the engine on the stand, pulled the oil pan and ran into my first bit of good news...there's no plug for the new dipstick hole. The motor is from a 99 so I don't know what the deal is.

Does anybody know where the VIN or a date of manufacture would be on the engine, if at all?



Looks like my idea of having it mocked in the truck by this weekend is out the window. Plus Im sweating my balls off in the garage, damn humidity, haha...

 

that is not surprising, since i dont think any 3.4s have that boss drilled for a dipstick. you must drill it yourself, there are a few good examples of this in other people's swap threads with pics. Hopefully they will chime in since I cannot remember whos i saw it in... but yeah no biggie. drill that one and then tap the other one for a plug, and you're done!

 

*Subscribed*

Donde es fillsrunner?!

Fink

 

I had a similar issue with wanting to know the vin off the block and after talking to toyota and seaching all over the block for it came to be its no were. Best way IMO to figure out more about the motor is to look up the sensor numbers and search into that. it will get you close to exactly what it is.

 

Yeah, Ill drill it out sometime this week. Just more fun stuff to do. ORS said 00 and newer had no holes, but whatever.

And I already tapped and plugged the the original dipstickhole. Pulled the oil pan and put the new pickup tube in. Everything looked real good in there, so thats good. Also pulled the timing belt off. The water pump has a 7/99 stamped on it, so Id assume its a late model 99.

Original (I think) timing belt was on backwards and also appeared to be off one tooth. When I rotated the motor a full rotation, the marks on the timing belt would be 1 position different from previous, on both camshaft pulleys. The crankshaft mark was also at 4degrees, not 0. Whats going on there?

 

If you align all the marks TDC and put the belt on... Every turn it should move one notch on all. thats normal