I'm about half way through installing my Sonoran Steel 7.2 lift. Front went OK. Disassembling the rear went OK until I got to the rear shocks. I cut them off and everything is good.

I'm have a real PITA time getting the new shocks mounted up. My box end wrench keeps slipping off the nut and I can barely move to get the allen headed stud to turn. I gave up in disgust this evening (really, I was just hungry).

So - any tips on these? As far as I can tell, there is no option to just turn the shock body, like on the stock shocks.

Thanks!

MadCityRich

 

I used a 14mil deep socket on a smaller ratchet. A box end wrench doesn't have the right angle to grab the nut as you tighten it down. The deep socket gets it over the edge of that damn mounting 'cup', yet isn't too tall (I figured it would be, but it works). I then had about 30-45 degrees of play to slowly tighten down the crown nut. Sure it takes forever, but it works. Use locktite too....

 

Doesn't the shaft rotate when you do that? For the Bilstein 5125, there is an allen head socket. It looks like you need to hold one steady and then turn the other (either the allen head in the stud or the nut).

But maybe I'm reading it wrong.

Thanks,
MadCityRich

 

Installed this kit about a month ago. What I did was used a 1/2 inch ratchet with a 14mm socket and was able to turn the top nut just fine. Loctite is not necassary as the nuts are the nylon lock type. I used a small version of vise grips and a rag to keep the shock shaft from turning. This was the only way I could tighten the top nut.

 

I made it work. I have a 17mm wrench from my BMW car tool set that has a steep angle. That held the nut in place. Then I turned the allen headed shaft with my stubby socket + allen socket.

MadCityRich

 

worst design ever. i did an install a week ago and my hands still hurt from it.

 

Serious pain in the ass, what I did was put an open ended wrench on top and and a strap wrench on the shock body.