SFA Old Man Emu (OME) Kit Installation

Its a long post, even for a full on write-up. But the most important information is in the first two pictures and the second and second-to-last paragraphs. Thanks to a few folks here, and to a couple friends that I work with, for opinions, experiences, guidance, tools and time. This is not a rocket science modification, however, I had some questions throughout the process, being inquisitive, and figured that I could contribute to the forum with this write-up. I hope that this thread will also collect other peoples direct experience with SFA OME installations. The questions that I began with included: 1) how much lift would I get, 2) would I need any extra parts beyond the kit, 3) would the ol' yota rear drive train acceleration Clunk be fixed, and most importantly 4) how will much the quality of the ride change? First a couple pics from before and after the lift:





The immediate answers to my questions above are 1) about 4.5 inches in the front and 3.5+ inches in the back, 2) I needed a drop drag link and extended break lines, and I would need to remedy the torsion bar if I wanted to reconnect it, 3) the clunk has been reduced, but not eliminated, and 4) the ride is greatly improved from the original springs and previous gas shocks. The installation process is straight forward, so I will not document it here, but rather provide my parts list, and specific details regarding the kit and installation.

After emailing five vendors (bcc'd) for recommended setups and price quotes for exact parts I chose to do business with Slee Offroad based on their responsiveness, component availability, knowledgeable recommendations, and friendly manner (Thanks Ben). I might have saved some money with another vendor, but I feel like I saved some time and had better information usingSlee . I paid their posted price for the advertised kit plus shipping (from WA, cheaper than from CO, thanks again Ben), but I also paid for a few additional parts for a complete job. Here's the parts list:

CS009FA&B Dakar Springs (heavy front L&R)
CS009R Dakar Springs (medium rear)
N84 Shocks (medium front)
N85 Shocks (medium rear)
SB5&6 Bushings
U52&3 U Bolts
SD21 Steering Damper
GS3&4 Greasable Shackles
GP3 Pins
Toyota rear spring fixed-end bolts (2)
Procomp drop drag link (Summitracing pt# EXP-TOY400)
Procomp extended steel braided break lines (Summitracing pt# EXP-7210)
Tube of Mobil1 grease
Bottle of whatever break fluid

The installation took about 7 casual hours, including complete brake line change-out, drop drag link installation and adjustment, and shop cleanup. Although we did not encounter any real problems, there were a couple of moments, including when we realized the need for extended break lines - we could not slip a front spring into place because the original break line was too taut, upon jacking the frame up, to accommodate the larger than anticipated lift. So that ended work for the night, otherwise we would have finished in about 5 hours.

The front passenger spring CS009FB is 20 mm shorter (vertical dimension) than the drivers side CS009FA. This is to account for the passenger side spring perch being higher off the axle line, due to its position directly next to the front differential case. I measured the actual height of both spring perches in order to determine if there had been any trail adjustments to the factory dimensions in the last 22+ years and 300,000 miles. I measured the passenger side perch to be 13 mm higher than the drivers side, so I did get the A&B springs. If I had measured a difference of less than 10 mm, I would have gone with two CS009FAs.

Ben warned me that the original rear spring fixed-end bolts would be very tough to remove, and may need to be cut out. For some unknown reason, the OME kit does not include these pins as a greasable option, or at all, therefore I ordered the OE Toyota bolts. During installation, we did indeed have to cut one pin out. Having the replacements on hand was nice.

Fellow member Wardamneagle has mentioned the need for a dropped drag link in several threads. I had one on hand for the job just in case, and I ended up needing it (due to the unexpected extra lift). He also mentioned monkeying with his torsion bars to reconnect them. I left mine disconnected for test runs, and decided that it is not necessary for my application at this time (little to no body roll with the HD springs in front, possibly since I have no heavy bumper yet and no factory fiberglass topper). I did not grease the shackles and pins during the installation due to my haste to clean up and out after the last bolt. So I ended up driving the truck for a week before greasing everything up.

On to driving impressions. I immediately noticed a much improved ride from the previous OE springs and KYB shocks. As Ben pointed out, the worn factory springs are usually sagged flat or even inverted, making the clearance between the frame and bump stops pretty small - this results in continually bottoming the suspension, and a pogo stick launching action from nearly any sized bump (even pot holes and driveway ramps). The new springs are firm, yet they travel much more than the old setup (pics below) would allow, eliminating suspension bottom-out and associated pogo launching. I feel increased control over the vehicle: the tires stick down on the road better, I have better control over acceleration in rough spots since my body is not physically bouncing around on the pedal, and the rear drive line hooks up more positively (I am guessing reduced axle wrap, accompanied by a reduction of Clunk).

Obviously, the stance of the vehicle and aspect from the cockpit are changed, but the change is not radical despite the greater than anticipated lift. In haste before the first bolt was turned, I did not get the "before" lift measurements, so the figures reported above were measured using CAD on photos (I estimate a 1/4 inch accuracy), and it should be noted that the truck in that position is slightly compresses on the front passenger side, and slightly extended on the drivers side. I think that the advertised 2" lift is "above stock height" plus, and that the truck was previously sagging below stock height by up to a couple inches, for a total lift of about 4+ inches.

Incidentally, the brakes feel a bit tighter and more positive - whether due to the steel braided lines or just a good brake fluid bleed. Also incidentally, I just might have gotten the OE drag link to install, but it would have been tight, and I think the steering action may have been impaired. The drop drag link works flawlessly. Both of these new parts looks awesome along with the spanking new suspension. The drivers side U bolts are very long and need cutting.



After a week of enjoying my new suspension, I finally got around to greasing the shackles, pins and drag link ends. To my surprise, I again noticed a much improved ride. I estimate that the "quality of ride" nearly doubled again going from just the new springs and shocks, to the greasable parts as well. Since greasing these parts, the ride is quite a bit more plush (yet still relatively firm), and interior vibration noises have been substantially dampened. One of the dealers that I originally spoke with offers a kit for sub-$1000. It conspicuously does not include greasable shackles and pins - when asked about this omission, the dealer told me that those parts are "certainly not necessary for the famous OME suspension ride quality". I found differently, that these parts are a big part of that quality.



I may come back with offroad impressions and a flex shot, but right now I just want to post this thing. I think its safe to assume that the same quality improvements noted above will translate to the trail. Ride on!

 

This is such a noob question, what does the drop drag link do? Also what all did you do, just a suspension lift? I'm new to lifting SFA trucks, all I did on my 87 p/u was crank the torsions.

 

I had plenty of noob questions before I tackled this lift. The drop drag link (sideways s-shaped device in third photo) replaces the straight OE drag link, in order to maintain horizontal push-pull steering. Old Man EMU is a 4 leaf spring lift, with 'tuned' shocks, and greasable shackles and pins, as a complete suspension lift 'kit' that you pick and choose spring rate and shock firmness from.

 

BKtaco,

Nice write-up. Glad it all went well. I also need to trim those front U-bolts and haven't done so yet. I put a porta-band on them and after 2 minutes realized that they are Grade 8 bolts and the band saw wasn't going to do the job. I will either torch them or take some type of special cut-off saw blade to them at some point.

Also unfortunately, I didn't take any before measurements either but I would say that my "lift" before and after is similar to yours except I'm probably an inch lower in front with my ARB bumper and M8000 installed. As far as I can tell my 4Runner is dead level front to back now (I used same springs and shocks as BKtaco).

 

Very nice write up

What was the final cost with all parts used?

 

i would also like to know what the cost was for everything involved. also what about your front driveshaft was it long enough or did you have to get a longer one made?

 

I paid just under $1400 for the OME gear plus shipping, and another $160 plus tax for the Procomp gear. It is not a cheap suspension, but probably not too far off other kits when they are complete. My objective was to get as close a feel to my Tacoma (with Bilstien HD shocks) as I could with a SFA. I think I met that objective

No drive train modification.

 

My OME kit (and I bought everything that BKTaco installed, pins, U-bolts, springs, shocks, steering stablizer, etc.) was $1040 + shipping a year ago. I paid about the same, $160, for the Procomp draglink.

 

That sounds like a good deal, considering you get all the components with the kit... of course if you have the dough up front like the bakery!!!

 

I remember last fall when I was initially going to do the install, the rep said all OME prices were going up "tomorrow" and that I could get everything for around $1200 that day. I could have saved a couple Franklins at that time. I think all the usual vendors are within $100 for the same kit today, ie, you might find a few bucks less per item if you shop around.