Just got a '84 Pickup, thought I'd share.
#1
Just got a '84 Pickup, thought I'd share.
Hey guys, I've been browsing around here for about the past week, vey informative forum you've got. I just picked up a '84 w/ 33x12.5's, a 3 inch body lift, and shackles(I think). It needs some work, but $1200 for a good running, driving 4x4, w/ 33's, I couldn't pass it up. The biggest problem it has is rust on the passenger frame rail at the front bracket of the rear leaf spring. I poked at it w/ a screw driver, and it's pretty bad, but I couldn't find any more than surface rust elsewhere on the frame. But I have access to a variety of sheet metal, and can weld. I plan to just remove what I can, add patch panels, then overly reinforce it. Anyone have a suggestion of what thickness I should use, I have anywhere from 4 to 13 gage. Anyway, any suggestions or tips about this truck would be appreciated. Pics below.




#3
7 or 8 gauge is about 3/16th's isn't it? I'd go somewhere in that range. That is pretty gnarly rust in a fairly critical location so it may be difficult finding good metal to weld your patch section to. You'll want fairly stout stuff to carry the load of your patch span. You going to maek your patch section look like channel?
#4
I think I'm going to use 7 gage, it's roughly 0.180". As far as the actual repair, I'm going to cut out the rust and patch in panels where there is material to weld to. Then basically weld a box completely around the frame over the whole area and probably 6-8 inches past where the rust stops either direction. I'll probably also add an extra support tying the bed mount to the frame and the leaf spring bracket. I know this is a pretty big repair to do, but hell, what do I have to lose, I've already bought the truck. If anybody else has any suggestions or tips for frame repair please chime in.
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#8
Not too bad of deal. Truck looks like it has the typical 2nd gen bed rust.
Sounds like you are on the right track for the frame repair. Since it sounds like you are going to be doing a bed mount anyway, remove that bed mount just about the spring mount and do a plate along that whole section. Drop the gas tank so you have room to work (probably already have that planned
)
I would go as thick of steel as you can.
Not sure if your brush guard is tied in any where but the bottom mounts, but I had one similar, the light beam bouncing all over the place drove me nuts. Tied in to the bumper and that kept it from being too flimsy...
Enjoy your truck and keep us posted on the progress.
Sounds like you are on the right track for the frame repair. Since it sounds like you are going to be doing a bed mount anyway, remove that bed mount just about the spring mount and do a plate along that whole section. Drop the gas tank so you have room to work (probably already have that planned
)I would go as thick of steel as you can.
Not sure if your brush guard is tied in any where but the bottom mounts, but I had one similar, the light beam bouncing all over the place drove me nuts. Tied in to the bumper and that kept it from being too flimsy...
Enjoy your truck and keep us posted on the progress.
#9
Thanks for all the comments guys. Yeah, I will be removing the bed and gas tank for the repair. At first it was just a little hole I'd be able to fix without removing anything, but then I started poking at it(glad I did). It's kind of odd though that this is the only area rusted, I went around the whole rest of the frame with a hammer and screwdriver, it's all solid. Yeah, the push bar shakes like hell, I think I'm just going to weld a piece of steel angle at an angle from the mounting plates up to a higher point on the bar for now. I'll be making custom bumpers (it doesn't even have a rear one) once I get all of the necessities fixed first. The frame repair will be this Saturday if the weather holds off, there's currently a chance of t-storms, and I have no garage to work in.
Again, thanks for the comments/suggestions, keep them coming.
Again, thanks for the comments/suggestions, keep them coming.
#10
I agree with ocd... we did a similar repair on an 85, the rust was way worse though, had to strap the frame together to get it home... and yes it was a scary 3 hours. But we plated the sides, then the top, then the bottom. it held just fine but it was 2wd and driven real easily. GOOD LUCK!
#12
Well, I got the repair done, but it is nothing like I had planned on doing. I didn't know that my dad sold his plasma cutter, so my only cutting tool was a grinder, therefore I wasn't able to cut out nice patch panels. I broke out what rust I could with a chisel and hammer and grinder, then I welded crudely cut panels here and there over the rust and welded "support straps" around the frame connecting the panels on both sides(the backside was rusted too). It is very ugly, but alot stronger than it was, I have no worries about it.
#17
Yeah, x2 leave the roll bar. Put some offroad lights on top and you should be set. Only thing I would add would be a cool paintjob (rattle can) with like a winter camo or something sick.
#18
Hate to dissappoint you guys, but I've already ditched the roll bar for a tool box. I do like the push bar though. I think I'm going to spray the whole thing flat black; body grille, bumpers, everything(except the wheels).
#20
As promised, my terribly awful LOOKING repair. I have went around flexing over rocks at my parents house(they have an old rock quarry on their property, lots of large rocks around) and it doesn't move, before, the spring bracket would move up a hair. On the backside, I have a 3/16" plate ove the whole side of the frame, and the little strips you see coming down around the frame connect to that. Please no flaming about I should have repaired it like this or that, I know it is not repaired nearly properly, but I believe it is just as strong as original.


Last edited by boice1971; May 13, 2008 at 01:59 PM.



