Im hoping someone can help me out you guys have such a expance of knowledge between all of you. i am replacing my cv shafts due to a HORRID noise comminf from them and i got the passanger side one out and i got it back in... most of the way I cant get it up and over the diff out put and slide it on the studs that are there. has anyone else had this probelm when doin this before?

 

Will Someone Please Help Me I Cant Go To Work Tomorrow!!

 

i have not done this job yet but i am going to have to soon... did you drop the ball joints or do the method with trying to pull them out without dropping the ball joint?

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...toyotas-81059/

 

i didint drop the ball joint down. it didint look like i had to and i dont wanna but if i have to i will

 

You can always pull it back out and work on it tomorrow night. That is unless you need to four wheel to work. I pressed out the studs in my front diff and replaced them with grade eight bolts so I don't have to slide a replacement halfshaft over the studs. Makes a trail repair easier. As I recall with a little persuasion you could compress the plunge joint enough to get the halfshaft in, but last time I did it I had the whole spindle apart to replace everything (ball joints, tie rod ends, rotors, bearings).

 

yeah if you have manual hubs just unlock and drive to work!
i just puta set on my yota tonight took an hour and 25 bucks for the aisin hubs.. i ended up snapping 1 bolt and one hole is stiped on the other side aisin,, but they will work for my dd and i have another good set for the trail rig

 

does it compress anough to do that? i couldent seem to get it to move that much. im layin on my back in the drive way. maybe im just not strong enough. im only 135 lbs. ill try pounding out 2 of the studs and see if that works

 

i just did mine and i droped the ball joint and punded out one of the studs. It gave me just enough to put it in

 

Even if you don't have manual hubs, just pull the whole halfshaft out and work it again tomorrow. It's not ideal because junk can get in the hub but if you're desparate, it's a temporary solution.

I'd probably unbolt the ball joints before I pounded out some studs. It's pretty easy to disconnect the ball joints on that truck. I'd try unbolting the bottom one (it's held in by four bolts as I recall and then swinging the spindle upward to give you some more room to compress the new axle shaft onto the diff.

 

I take that back. I'm 99% sure you have to separate the spindle from the ball joint before you can unbolt it. Just thought about it for a second and the ball joint slips up through a hole in the a-arm and is bolted in. So you'll have to break the wedge fit end of the ball joint free. Best done with a ball joint separator tool but two hammers whacking on either side of the joint at the same time often will jar it loose.

 

pull off the hub, remove the bolt in the end of the shaft, remove the snap ring, loosen the nuts on the cv shaft on the diff end of things, put a 6" or 8" C-clamp on the nut w/ a socket of a large enough diameter for the stud to pop through. Once all the studs are popped out the cv will come out much easier (can still be a bit of a booger, but it'll come) Then you can either replace the studs w/ expensive bolts or grind the splines off the studs & reuse them. Then the next time you need to change them it'll be much easier...no popping out of studs the 2nd time 'round.

 

i dropped down the upper ball join and that gave me plenty of room to get it back in there. when i do the other side ill just do this from the start. and remove the sway bar just to make things go a little smoother. Thanx for the help

 

I never had to undo a ball joint or press out the studs *shrugs* It WILL fit.

Truck solid on jack stands, jack under a-arm. jack suspension up until it is easy to add/remove IFS front axle shaft.

 

From what I've read that other folks wrote that will work for some; I can guarantee you with 100% certainty that would not have worked on mine. It's still a pita even with the studs out on my pass. side.....gotta get it just right. The drivers side isn't bad, still have to use a jack under the lower control arm but once you get it just right the cv goes in easy enough.