OK, I'm a half a$$ mechanic at best and here's the story. Clappy, my 85 Pickup born with a 22r, has been lightly modded by me. OEM carb, intake, emissions (except cat.), all tossed in the dump. Added Offenhauser single plane intake, Weber 32/36 carb, LC Engineering blocking plates. After tinkering around with this mess for a few months, it finally starts giving me real trouble (besides getting less than ideal mileage and nothing over half throttle.) It fouled the number 2 spark plug. Fine. Plugs replaced. So, wanting it to run as best as possible, I take it to a shop near work where a good carb mechanic works. He only had time for a quick look-see. Says there are a couple of problems: The carb float has gas setting in there where it should not (he's diving into the carb tomorrow). The factory distributor has two vacuum advance diaphrams on it, one for start up vacuum advance, the other for heavy throttle vacuum advance. I am a bit confused: some vehicles use a centrifugal system on the distributor to advance timing when under heavy throttle- when I was installing all this stuff, LCE technical assistance said to block one, and use the other off the bottom of the 32/36. From what I'm gathering from the mechanic, they are wrong, and this is causing part of the lack of acceleration above half throttle. He also stated that I need colder plugs for a better spark. I'm trying not to go more broke on Clappy, so I'm avoiding the high energy ignition box/coil for the moment. The biggest reason for all this work was because the OEM carb was giving me trouble, none of the OEM emissions stuff worked anymore, and simple is always better. Plus you always hear about better gas mileage with a 32/36. Any thoughts, anyone?

 

It sounds like your loading up. I had the same issues with a weber I had on my old truck. I got a fuel pressure regulator and it took care of it. These webers don't have all that much to them. I run them on my bug motor. The same model #. Usually fouling is caused my to much fuel.

 

Well, after my post, I called LC Engineering and went over all the symptoms with them. You've gave the same answer they did, too much fuel pressure. So I dug through my inventory of things yet to be installed and found the Weber Redline electric fuel pump, Mallory regulator, and mechanical fuel pump blocking plate. I'll put it all together this weekend. LC told me to keep the pressure on a Weber to no more than 3psi. So I bought a 0-15psi gauge to mount in one of the Mallory ports. Hopefully this will all dial in. Thanks for the reply!

 

By golly, it worked! I put all the stuff in. I installed a fuel pump kill switch in the dummy plug next to the dash light dimmer. Drives and accelerates a hell of alot better. The Weber fuel pump is a bit noisy, but I can live with that- as I put a 2004 Tacoma double DIN AM/FM/CD/CASS unit in, too. And fixed the horn. If your horn doesn't work, and it ain't the horn itself, pull the steering wheel and build up solder on the brass contact pin.

 

Interesting. After driving the truck for about 30 miles this evening, I pulled in the driveway and shut off the truck. Had a bit of dieseling. Cranked the truck over again, let it run for a few seconds, then hit the fuel pump kill switch. It kept running. The pump was definitely off. Ran for about a minute before I gave up and turned the key off. Damned efficient, I guess.

 

you were just burning the fuel in the bowl. carburetors hardly use anything at idle. I would wire the fuel pump into the ignition so it only turns on with the ignition on.

 

^^ yeah, my buddy had one on a switch he left on one night and it totally drained the tank.

 

Do you have a fuel cut off solenoid like the stock carb? What's your idle set at?

 

Did you have a problem with i running rich when idling

 

Sorry, I gotta ask......."Clappy"?