What jet sizes are you guys using on your 22R's?
Mine is running really rich with the supplied jetting, I followed the Weber instructions when adjusting but still way rich. I have the air screw only out about 1-1/2 turn max. Just want ideas to see if I was given wrong jet sizes for application.

 

i just got my weber on, im about 2 turns outs and it runs a little rich, not much diff than 1.5 turns. most of my problems come with cold start and idling in hot weather.

 

Mine starts great in cold weather and seems to start good hot too. But is getting crappy milage and exhaust pipe has lots of black residue. Running out anothe 1/2 turn gets me black smoke from exhaust. My elev. is 770' here in town.

 

Hey did you ever find out what jets to run?

 

My set up 20r rv1 cam header I'm running main 140 and secondary is 160.

 

with mine im runnin the stock jets for the weber besides i went one up on the primary idle jet which is wat someone told me to do on here i think it was xxxtreme who told me that

 

What kinda mpg were you getting with that because I have a 22r with 20r head and full exhaust and been wondering if I should change up my jets

 

If you haven't checked it out yet, look at the sticky thread that says Weber carb info, or something like that. Basically, if you follow the "lean best idle adjustment" instructions, it will tell you if you need to change a jet size. Generally, you can leave the main jets alone, the ones to swap are the idle jets. Even then, it's a little bit of trial and error.
What I've found is that you can't just assume you'll need to lean it out if you're at high altitude or temps, either. I had to go a jet richer before I really threw a wrench into my tuning and got a sync-link kit, and I'm usually no lower than 4,000' elevation with nothing special on my motor but a long tube header that leaks and some really obvious rod knock in the bottom end.

 

i get around 13- 14 with my set up. im running 35's and a 4 speed

 

Yeah if you're running rich off idle, and youre having to adjust your A/F more than a turn or two, you need to put your air/fuel mixture at stock setting, then go down on the main jetting a size, then adjust.
If still too rich, reset A/F needle, down one, etc..

One thing i learned about carbs and jets: Never try to adjust everything at once, and always get a base reading.

 

ON mine I went up one size on the primary idle jet, stock everything else. 15/22 MPG City/Highway on 33's and 4.10s. This is with the mileage/tire size correction. Fresh motor 20 over, 10 thous off the block and a 268 EB cam. My cam timing is slightly off due the decking on the block, so I think I can get better mileage then that with the proper cam timing.

80% IIRC of the fuel during normal driving is run through that primary idle jet. So it's not going to absolutely perfect, especially if you have a lead foot. But IMO if your not running an A/F guage it's not worth messing with the other jets since you pretty much have to tear apart the carb to change them out.

Finding out what everyone else is running jet wise is also not a good idea, as this is going to be a per basis thing. Also of factors are going into it, like engine condition, altitude etc etc. So using the weber lean best idle method is highly recommended. And getting a good seal, which is dang near impossible on the factory two piece adapter, is also critical.

JonnyBoy's sync link kit is a pretty trick setup, I wish I was a little more comfortable changing internal jets on these things, I'd be running it as well. He's the only one I know running it.

 

You know, the internal jets I only changed because I was trying to dial it in as much as possible. You could get away with simply changing both idle jets to match. And seriously, after you remove the 4 bolts holding the air cleaner assembly on, it's just a matter of taking off the choke e-clip(be very careful, I did lose one once) and removing 6 screws holding the top plate on. A flat blade screwdriver is all that's needed to change the main jets or the air correctors. Get your cam timing right, then I think you should try out the link kit X.

 

My truck is running way better now and I've gone 25 miles and the gauge has barely moved but it falls on it's ass in 3rd gear and feels under powered but that's a 22r for ya. And I know it's kinda off topic but when my truck sits and cools down it takes a few seconds for the oil pressure to build up like 3 seconds. But if it's still warm it goes right up. Does this sound okay? And yes my oil filter has the anti drain back valve. Could it be because of winter and I'm running 10w-30 and Lucas in it?