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Trick to removing decals on a 1st Gen

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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 08:48 AM
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Trick to removing decals on a 1st Gen

I remember this being discussed but cant find the thread. How do you remove the decals on a 1st gen and whatre the odds of the paint underneath not being a differant shade after 19 years?
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 10:10 AM
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A sharp razor blade and time. I found it easier to remove when wet since it becomes softens. My decals were on for 21 years before I took them off, you can still see the outlines of them but only when you're within 10 feet of the 4runner looking for them. But then again my 4runner is off white, so your mileage may vary. Good Luck.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 10:20 AM
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they make a product called goo-gone, i have heard that it takes off decals easy
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 12:36 PM
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heat gun! they will come right off. gurantee there will be paint fade compared to what's underneath though. can try some rubbing compund on a wheel after you pull the decals off, may help blend things in a bit.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 12:46 PM
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I've done it three different ways, take it to the car wash and get it warmed up with the water and then use the jet of water to peel them off. this can be risky because the paint may come off too. dump really hot water on them to loosen the glue and then start them with a razor blade or your finger nail and just pull slowly while dumping more hot water on them, or a hair dryer will work if you don't want to go buy a heat gun. just get them warmed up and start peeling while you keep the hair dryer ahead of where you are pulling. go slow or the decal will rip.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 02:53 PM
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i thought i recalled somebody talking about a wheel that was something like an ereaser material and it rubbed it off without paint damage. But i cant find the thread or recall the product name.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SKNKWRX
i thought i recalled somebody talking about a wheel that was something like an ereaser material and it rubbed it off without paint damage. But i cant find the thread or recall the product name.
Here you go:

http://www.rightlook.com/index.asp?P...ROD&ProdID=147
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 05:21 PM
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After the decals were on my car for 22 years a heatgun and goo-gone didn't even phase them...

Last edited by strykersd; Nov 6, 2013 at 07:52 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SKNKWRX
what are the odds of the paint underneath not being a differant shade after 19 years?
not very good. part of the paint has been 'protected' by the sticke for almost 20 years. Count on it being a darker shade. You will probably see the outline of your stickers in your paint.

A heat gun, goof off and lots of time (effort) rubbing will get your stickers off
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:29 PM
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i work in a body shop and can tel you the only that will take them off is a heat gun...you gotta get it really hot but not to hot or you'll bubble the piant. but it's gotta be hot, i've done it like on 0 differnet cars and bruned my fingers each time it takes a while to do, a plastis razor helps. after you got them off use the goo-b-gone to remove the glue(or go to your local auto parts store and see if they have 3M adhesion remover).other than that just give it time..good luck
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by strykersd
After the decals were on my car for 22 years a heatgun and goo-gone didn't even phase then...
I second that! I just got through removing the decals from my 87. This is a socal truck that looked like it never saw shade for 21 years- just lots of intense sunlight. The vinyl was long gone except for a few flakes here and there. What was left was the adhesive. The stuff on the sides was baked into a hardened plastic. The stuff on the hood got the double whammy of engine heat and direct sunlight, baked into a crispy residue, like what you would clean out of an oven- I'm not kidding!

The side panels were very difficult. There was still a hint of stickyness to the goop, the best method I found here was to soak it with WD-40 for at least an hour, then scrape with a slightly worn razor blade (I found that scuffing the edge off a brand new blade with 1000 grit worked good). Too sharpe and it will dig into the paint, too dull and it won't get under the adhesive. Do not use heat, it will soften the paint along with the adhesive, which at this point is harder than the paint, guess where the razor will bite. It's all about the angle and amount of pressure you use. There is a feel to it that you will have to learn. Keep it wet with the WD-40 as you go. Know that you WILL gouge the paint at first until you get the feel for it, so start on an inconspicuos panel like the rear quarter or one that needs paint touch up already. Take your time and be patient, you cannot rush this. It took me 5 days (about 16 hours total) to do the scraping, then several more hours to touch up. Just pace yourself and tackle one panel a day.

On my white truck there was only discoloration beneath the specks where there was still vinyl. Also the paint surface beneath where the decals had been was still brand new. while the exsposed paint had worn away a little over time; so even after wet sanding, polish and wax you can see ridges at the edges of where the decals had been- but only up very close.

The hood, although it looked like it would have been much more difficult, was actually extremely easy. Here I found that the same blade setup but no WD-40 worked very well. The stuff was so crispy that it would wisk right off if I got the pressure and angle right, it went about 10x faster! Although the paint on the hood was discolored very badly. It still looks like i have brown graphics but after wet sanding and polish it appears a million times better than before.

Hope this helps anyone about to try this.

Last edited by SoCalWheeler71; Apr 5, 2008 at 06:41 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by LTrunner
i work in a body shop and can tel you the only that will take them off is a heat gun...you gotta get it really hot but not to hot or you'll bubble the piant. but it's gotta be hot, i've done it like on 0 differnet cars and bruned my fingers each time it takes a while to do, a plastis razor helps. after you got them off use the goo-b-gone to remove the glue(or go to your local auto parts store and see if they have 3M adhesion remover).other than that just give it time..good luck
What's the oldest vehicle that you've removed decals from? Let me assure you that a 20+ year old car won't have much vinyl left and the adhesive will be baked into plastic unless it's been kept indoors most of it's life. I'm not doubting that your method works, it works fine on newer cars, just not on a 1st gen, which is what the OP is asking about.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:58 PM
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From: Rancho Cucamonga, CA
Originally Posted by SKNKWRX
i thought i recalled somebody talking about a wheel that was something like an ereaser material and it rubbed it off without paint damage. But i cant find the thread or recall the product name.
The "eraser" wheels do work even on the hardened stuff, but once they come out of round they are almost useless. The trick to keeping them round is very even pressure. Also try to find a "toothed" type eraser wheel, those stay round longer. You can find them at automotive paint supply joints that body shops buy from, but it will be spendy to do your whole runner this way.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 09:51 AM
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hmmmmm I am thinking I may just leave it as is or try possibly just the hood. Sides are in good shape on the hood the vinyl is gone leaving just the rough pattern of the sticker. There are no panels on my truck that are inconspicuous and already in need of touching up the whole truck is original and cherry. I think it would look nice without the stripes but I'm pretty concerned about the paint not matching (truck is red). I know james dean creations makes replicas so that might save me if I remove and it looks like crap. Thanks guys!
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 05:44 PM
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From: spfld, MA
the "eracer" wheels work on all decals that are not painted on. the problems i the price...the wheel itslef is like $30 and the air tool to use it on(yes it's a speical tool) is like $150 IIRC
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by LTrunner
the "eracer" wheels work on all decals that are not painted on. the problems i the price...the wheel itslef is like $30 and the air tool to use it on(yes it's a speical tool) is like $150 IIRC
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93048

works just fine
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 06:35 PM
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2500 psi power washer will do the trick also.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 09:25 PM
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use an electric kettle and use the steam to slowly heat them up. i've never done it on truck decals, but i have on many other annoying decals
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 02:55 PM
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Eraser wheels are good for the adhesive left after the heat gun takes off the vinyl. If you try to use the wheel on the the vinyl decal it will take 2-3 wheels for the whole truck. 3#M adhesive remover only works on the side that has been in the shade for 20 years--the other side will be baked on! I bought a handy looking spray can of "aircraft" adhesive remover from Napa and it took everything off, including paint. Heat gun+eraser wheel is the way to go. You don't need an air drill, just chuck it in your electric. Slower speed=longer life.

good luck
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 04:20 PM
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I heard that white vinegar works good to remove the adhesive but I didn't try it, can anyone confirm this?
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