Do I have to remove the axle shafts before the differential housing can be removed with the gears? Thanks, Brian

 

Yes you do.

Disconnect the brake lines before you do, don't try to flex them, or you could end up with a brake line job as well

 

This is also a good time to replace the axle seals... and even bearings if you have a lot of miles on them.

 

Yes, just slide them out. Try not to hit the sides of the axle housing when removing/installing them.

p.s Elvota - thats an awsume avatar. I love that movie....man!

 

Thanks... I must admit it gets me smiling every time I log in... and keeps me in the right mindset as well.

 

nice....can you not just unhook the brakes then slids out both axles just enough to clear the diff?

 

You want to completely remove the axles so the weight of them resting on the seals doesn't cause a leak later on.

From memory this is how it should go (If I remember everything).

1) Drain differential and remove tires
2) remove E Brake cables.
3) remove Brake lines and cap them (I usually use vacuum port caps borrowed from somewhere else on the truck temporarily)
4) remove drive shaft bolts (be sure to mark orientation of slip yoke to drive shaft)
5) remove ABS plug if so equipped.
6) remove 4 bolts on each side holding axle then slide the axle all the way out and set on end.
7) remove bolts holding diff in housing. If you pull any studs out be sure to re-seat them completely so as not to strip the housing out on reassembly. It takes a bit of movement to get the diff out of the housing so be patient.

 

thanks i have 2 nuts free on one side and 2 on the other and the fluid is drained.. im putting in my welded rear as i do my clutch in the trail rig.... lots of rust .. pateince heat , pbblast, and of course yotatech are my allies!

 

I had to detach the swaybar endlinks in order to install my rear third. When removing third, I was able to just pull it out.

 

ok guys i have both axles out and the rear diff out but the studs came out not just the nuts... tommorow after work im going to put my welded rear in... do i just screw the studs in they tighen the nuts... or do i take the nuts off and have to seat the studs somehow?

 

you should be ok just putting back the way they came out, and when i do my third, i dont remove the axles..usually i just slide them out far enough to remove the 3rd, then push em back in till your ready to put the 3rd back...i can usually remove and replace in under 3hrs(including time for bleeding rear brakes)

 

Ganoid answered this earlier as to why you don't want the axles just resting on the seals. I would recommend going his route. IMO it only takes afew more seconds to pull the axles and set them aside. No sense it possibly causing more work down the road.

Bigt: you should just be able to use the 2 studs with the nuts stuck on them like a bolt. But some folks would try to get the nuts off and use some lock tight when putting the studs back in...

 

yes this is my first time really getting greasy and im doing a clutch at the same time kinda... so im taking off the things i can because im deaing with canadas finest rust! slowly but surely she will get out on the trail again...if i can put the studs in the way they came out i could have it all back together under half an hour might do that after dinner

 

never suggested to rest on the seals...my studs dont come out when i loosen them, so I just slide the mount back on the studs...then it sits the same inside the axle housing, and there are guides on the inside just where the axle ends slide into the diff, and I have had mine apart several times, and still no leaks... but yes...it only takes a few extra minutes to pull them completely..also when i pull my 3rd, i dont even open the drums...just slide out and slide in...it does save a little time as I dont have to disconnect the e-brake cable at all....just lossen the bole on holding it stay so it will slide with the axles..they only need to move about 8 inches or so..

 

yup but it started raining so i covered the axle ends with bags and the pumpkin and put everything eles in the garage tommorow it is

 

do i rtv the diff and the axle or just one?? it might stop raining while theres light!!

 

why would you RTV the axle? each axle shaft has 3 seals (inner, plate, and o-ring) that keeps it from leaking. If it leaks after you put it back together, you need new seals. Simple as that. RTV is only going to gum it up and cause more problems.

FIPG (rtv) is ok to use on the diff, but make sure the surfaces are clean and only use a LITTLE BIT. do NOT glop it on like most people do. Just a dab'll do ya. You dont want excess RTV getting into the differential cavity and blocking the flow of oil to the gears.

 

no i ment on the pumkin part of the axle and on the diff it self... ok so its little is better with the rtv.. my axles dont leak the old diff was leaking a bit at the drive shaft but the welded diff got all new bearings and setup....

i gotta say toyotas trucks are pretty easy and fun to learn on!

 

BUMP

well guys i got the welded diff back in and the axles back in and it filled up with 3 quarts.... heres my problem.. on one of the diff studs my air tool snapped the bolt after it drove the stud in pretty far.... so its tight and doesnt leak... im not driving the truck till i do the clutch ...and a few other small jobs.. if i keep an eye on it and it doesnt leak would it be ok till next time i have to pull the diff?? i used a small rtv gasket on the axle side only