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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

22re engine swap out time

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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 07:54 AM
  #1  
scrid's Avatar
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From: Omaha, NE
22re engine swap out time

Hey everyone, I have a friend who has a 94' pickup with a 22re that has developed a nice rattle.
I have located a long block, and was planning on installing a clutch at the same time the engine is swapped out.
Just wondering what kind of an average time frame you all think it would take to pull the engine?
Thanks.
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 11:14 AM
  #2  
dcg9381's Avatar
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From: austin, tx
Originally Posted by scrid
Hey everyone, I have a friend who has a 94' pickup with a 22re that has developed a nice rattle.
I have located a long block, and was planning on installing a clutch at the same time the engine is swapped out.
Just wondering what kind of an average time frame you all think it would take to pull the engine?
Thanks.
It's going to vary quite a bit based on how familiar you are with the engine and your general aptitude.

It generally takes me a few hours, maybe 4 or so to get a motor ready to pull out via the hoist...

Stripping it down, transferring the parts, not breaking anything, then getting it back in takes a lot longer.

Just be sure to take lots of photos and label everything.
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 12:07 PM
  #3  
Georgiadave's Avatar
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Marietta, Georgia
Engine replacement - Other items to consider
________________________________________
Here is what I did or considered for my engine replacement:

New clutch
Remote oil filter kit (no more mess under the filter)
Spark plugs, ignition wires, cap, rotor
Miscellaneous toyota gaskets instead of the ones in the kit, new exhaust studs and nuts
Replace alternator brushes
Thermostat
Drain and Replace Power Steering Fluid
New belts
Vaccum hoses
Fuel filter (much easier with engine out of the truck)
Engine mounts (if worn)
Cooling and heater system hoses
Hoses under the intake manifold (They are attached to the manifold via the rear of the engine)
Radiator clean up if needed
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 12:26 PM
  #4  
Georgiadave's Avatar
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From: Marietta, Georgia
Some more specific ideas:

There are a number of threads on this subject, they should give you some idea of the problems others have solved.

Study the FSM or a Haynes manual on how to remove the engine.

Here are some things I have learned that might be useful:

I would just remove the engine, leave the transmission in the truck. Brace the transmission.

Do not remove any parts that can stay on the engine or just be disconnected. For instance, leave the power steering and A/C hoses connected, just disconnect the units from the engine, and tie them aside. Leave the fuel injection system, exhaust manifolds, and alternator on the engine.

The wire harness is difficult to remove from the fuel injection manifold, as it is under a wealth of other stuff. Also, it is woven through the fuel injection manifold. Instead, disconnect the wire harness from the ECU, MAF sensor, starter, transmission, etc, and remove it with the engine.

It is very important to LABLE EVERYTHING like hoses, vaccum tubes, electrical connections. This site is full of people whining and asking about how to reconnect this stuff after an engine change. Also, run fasteners back into their place after you have removed a component. You will then know where they belong, because they will be where they belong.

After you get the engine out. the fuel injection manifold has an allen bolt in the front that is hard to access and is in pretty tight. I had to turn it off by chiseling it , what a PITA. Replace it with a regular hex headed bolt.

I would change all coolant and vaccum hoses while the engine is on the stand, some of them are hard to even see with the engine in the truck.

While the engine is out, I would replace the clutch.

If you can, use two engine stands, one with the old engine on it, the other with the new engine, move parts from the old engine directly to the new one. This will help keep things organized.

Slip a new set of brushes in the alternator, the alternator is hard to access with the engine in the truck, and you will have the unit off anyway.

When you reinstall the engine, level it side to side with ratchet straps or something, as it is unbalanced and will not hang level. The engine needs to be level to go back in.

There will be some unanticipated work to be done, like broken bolts, components that are bad, and shoddy work from prior maintenance. These will add time and money to the job.

This job does not require any great knowledge, it is just time consuming. It took me about 15 hours spread over two weeks to accomplish it. I needed help getting the engine out and back in, and to remove/replace the hood, other than that, I did it alone. You will need a cherry picker and at least one engine stand, and a sheltered place to work. I rolled my truck out of the garage to remove and replace the engine, other than that, it was in the garage. Some long extensions to remove the top engine to transmission bolts and the exhaust pipe to manifold nuts will be very useful.

Good luck with the project.
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