84-85 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd gen pickups and 1st gen 4Runners with solid front axles

WTH is Wrong with my 85 22rE ??????

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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 10:36 PM
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WTH is Wrong with my 85 22rE ??????

I have a 22re 85 4x4 ..
it starts with, i drove my truck about 15 miles then it over heats, so i check the thermostat.. i bought the truck used so homeboi before me had taken it out already.. So I tightened it backdown..turnkey water came out of the thermostat.. so i buy a new one with a new gasket and gasket seal. Spring side down then tightened it back again... filled it up took it for a spin seemed to work.. then 4 days later today i went to the dump and it over heats again..i checked the oil.. nice and clean..thermo..its tight.. fan working yup..so im thinking water pump or headgasket or even a radiator cap malfunction... please help .. whats your thought guys...?
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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im guessing the water pump
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 10:57 PM
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i forgot to mention that water came out of the resv hose while overheating and the water that i had put in it previous was gone.i filled it back up just to get home.. and the heater didnt work again...? then it came back on half way home, "the heater that is"...
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 11:19 PM
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When replacing the thermostat did you check it for operation? Most are not bad I put then in a pot of water and a food thermostat and heat the pan on the stove and watch to see when it opens.
Did you look in the radiator for corrosion?
Did you check the weep hole in the water pump for leakage or the shaft for bad bearings?
What condition is the antifreeze?
Did you do a compression test?
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by KOBZ
i forgot to mention that water came out of the resv hose while overheating and the water that i had put in it previous was gone.i filled it back up just to get home.. and the heater didnt work again...? then it came back on half way home, "the heater that is"...
Low fluids will cause the heater not to work and over heat the motor. Bad if got too hot. Can destroy the motor.
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 06:09 AM
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How is the radiator, have you had it checked ?.
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 06:13 AM
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The radiator could be full of deposits and you may have air in the system. Did you fill the system from the top hose? 50/50 coolant and water mix? Also see if your cooling fan clutch is loose. If that fan can't pull enough air through the radiator you'll have the symptoms you are describing.
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 07:28 AM
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Might read this page and see if it applies to your case:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat

TSB: 029032787 22R-E Engine Temperature Overshoot

It says:

Some 1984 pickup trucks and 1983-1984 Celica models, equipped with 22R-E engines, may experience a condition called "temperature gauge overshoot". After starting a cold engine the temperature gauge will indicate a higher than normal engine temperature for a short time just prior to the thermostat opening. After the thermostat opens, the temperature gauge will return to the normal range. A new double valve thermostat has been made available to reduce temperature gauge overshoot.

And calls for part number 90916-03070 which according to the TSB replaces 90916-03055.
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 08:01 AM
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disconnect ur bottom radiator hose and poor water in the radiator see if it looks like as much water is coming out as ur putting in.it sounds like ur radiator is bad.it will push the water out the overflow because of the extreme heat.also wait until its cold and start the truck with the radiator cap off usually if its a head gasket it will shoot the water out of the radiator or it will flexuate.look at the valve cover cap and see if there is a white look on the bottom of the cap.if so head gasket.
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 10:38 PM
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This weekend ill run a compression test..the motor seems to be just eating the water "litteraly"...
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 12:59 PM
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You may think I'm nuts, but I think you'd better plan on doing a head gasket real soon. I've seen this happen a few times already. Check to see if when your truck is running the overflow is bubbling. It should only really do this when the truck is just turned off and your water pump stops turning. A good way to check is to let the engine cool overnight and then start the engine with the cap off. If it blows coolant out the top of the rad right away, then your cooling system is getting pressured up. You should only have flow through the rad when the thermostat opens which should take a while. On compression stroke, the compression pressure can blow past the fire ring on the head gasket, but not necessarily allow coolant to get into the cylinder. This will only happen for a short while, though. Beware! I've seen this happen a few times and each time it resulted in bent rods when the cylinders got flooded. BTW, it usually happens with jobber head gaskets shortly after they've been replaced, so I would use only a Toyota gasket. Any of the other problems stated above would take longer to see the results. And since your coolant is disappearing, this would be a good thing to check first. A compression test might show which cylinder is leaking down, my guess would be #4. Good luck!
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 06:01 PM
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i dont mean to hijack, but i think i may need to replace my waterpump.

how labor intensive is this, do you simply unbolt old bolt on new with new gasket, or do you have to take 100 things apart to change the one part.
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Old Feb 9, 2008 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 88wildrunner
how labor intensive is this, do you simply unbolt old bolt on new with new gasket, or do you have to take 100 things apart to change the one part.
Piece of cake if it's a 22r(e)

Pain in the a$$ is it's a 3VZ
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by klr toy
You may think I'm nuts, but I think you'd better plan on doing a head gasket real soon. I've seen this happen a few times already. Check to see if when your truck is running the overflow is bubbling. It should only really do this when the truck is just turned off and your water pump stops turning. A good way to check is to let the engine cool overnight and then start the engine with the cap off. If it blows coolant out the top of the rad right away, then your cooling system is getting pressured up. You should only have flow through the rad when the thermostat opens which should take a while. On compression stroke, the compression pressure can blow past the fire ring on the head gasket, but not necessarily allow coolant to get into the cylinder. This will only happen for a short while, though. Beware! I've seen this happen a few times and each time it resulted in bent rods when the cylinders got flooded. BTW, it usually happens with jobber head gaskets shortly after they've been replaced, so I would use only a Toyota gasket. Any of the other problems stated above would take longer to see the results. And since your coolant is disappearing, this would be a good thing to check first. A compression test might show which cylinder is leaking down, my guess would be #4. Good luck!
i talked to some dudes and they said if the water is gone and there is no leaks then i blew my head whats your opnion on that...? and i didnt do a comp test but will this weekend...
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 03:55 PM
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I would say try all the cheap fixes first. (i.e. radiator cap, hoses, clamps, and a Toyota thermostat [not an after market pep boys special]) I had a simillar experience with my 85 and someone told me to use a factory t-stat and not after market and WOW what a world of difference. They are only 2-3$ more than the after market ones but worth it when it comes to temps. Check the radiator for cracks too, re-torque/check the bolts on the water pump and timing cover. Maybe someone replaced the water pump/timing chain recently and didn't realize the bolts on the timing cover are 3 different sizes and lengths. (always fun learning that piece of info for the first time) If all that checks out ok and you are still having problems then I would Comp. test and check your head gasket. I ran in to this same issue 3 years ago and after replacing the hoses, clamps, and Factory T-stat, my problem was cured. I got another 40k out of the original motor before I threw a rod an destroyed a couple of bearings on my DD. But now with the new motor I've been smooth sailing.

Good Luck and hope to see you on the trail.

Last edited by brandonsliltruck; Feb 13, 2008 at 04:03 PM. Reason: misspelling oops
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Old Feb 20, 2008 | 09:09 PM
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so had the truck towed to a mechanic shop, i live in hawaii so this repair is not going to be cheap.. $1,700 for just tearing open the head and changing the gasket including timming chain,waterpump and oil pump.. im like holy shyyyyyt.... so to do the new head if the old head is no good is $2,500..including the labor.. ok by now im shyyyting my pants.. so my option is to buy the ebay rebuild kits they offer on here...so does anybody know about CNS parts..? they got a head for about $300 includes the valves everything internally... is this a go or a no.. i aint spending 2,500 on a 85 yota so i need to think of realistic options ... they priced me $130.00 for just a timming chain not including the labor for example... im trippn... anybody have a idea of good after market parts on ebay that will work...? help me out please thanks and aloha all the way from Hawaii......
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Old Feb 20, 2008 | 10:22 PM
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wow kind of pricey I would go spend 30$ on a compression tester first, then test it if you have low compression then replace the head gasket if it is low.

did you replace the radiator cap as well if the seals are bad on it it can boil out I would also drain and flush your cooling system.
is your fan clutch working correctly?

for a rebuild kit http://www.engnbldr.com/ has good parts and prices
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Old May 13, 2008 | 04:53 PM
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so its may now.. i changed my head to find that the conrods knock now..
fr!kn A.... so i got a new motor 22re from a 93.. transferd all the parts except the head... used the head it came with, now she wont start she acts like she wants to..there seems to be no fuel getting to the motor.. so i got a new fuel pump...stilll no dice.. im thinking something is not grounded or something ...wth anybody....?
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Old May 13, 2008 | 05:07 PM
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From: Sweet Home, OR
blew the EFI fuse?
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Old May 13, 2008 | 06:45 PM
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it seems to be ok... the truck ran before we did the swap, now that the new motor is in it wont start, it will turn but not start....?????????????? how can you for sure tell that the EFI is ok or blown...? and why all of a sudden will it go out...? i just got a new fuel pump from napa $130.00 not really wanting to cop out more money, im $2400 in the hole ,i need to get this going its been going on way to long...

Last edited by KOBZ; May 13, 2008 at 06:48 PM.
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