I have a 1981 4wd Pickup that I'm putting a 7" Skyjacker suspension lift into. The install instructions recommend flipping the ball stud on the knuckle/pitman arm to point up intsead of down. The is done to further correct the drag link angles as well as give more clearance at the u-bolts. However, according to the British Columbia Vehicle Inspection Manual, "No steering component can be modified or welded". The ball stud will remove easily enough, But there is no replacement, as you cannot weld the backside of the stud to the arm after the swtich. Now, I'm not to sure what to do. I've hired a machinist to create a new ball stud out of gr. 8 steel. Instead of the press back, it will have threads and use a crown nut and cotter pin. I know this will more than suffice, but does anyone have any other ideas?? I can't find any other replacement ball stud system.

 

Maybe im misunderstanding but I would either leave it stock or go with Hi-steer.

 

you just need to press it out .. and re-weld . I have ran it for 12 years .. and have just done it agian for my Trekker .

how to ---->
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=33240.0

I think if your truck is NOT a piece of crap , you'll be ok . I have never had a inspection , or ticket , but I did have a road side inspection , cop couldnt find anything wrong , and was mad .

 

Ahhh I see now

 

Corey- you know what's up. That is how all the after-market manufacturer's directions recommend as well, to press back in and weld. But B.C. law states it is illegal to weld or modify steering components. The new ball stud has threads, crown nut, and a cotter pin, and will be done by fri. This would not require welding on the arm. However I still want other options if this doesn't pass at inspection.
I have spent the last two years rebulidng. 7" lift, wire brush to bare metal and paint everything. Frame professionally repaired, all new glass, Paint, Roll Bars, tube bumpers, Modified Datsun Box, Tires getting bigger and bigger. Even the C.B. She ran great when I pulled her off the road. She's fully drained, and I have not turned the key in about 18 months. Have plans for second transfer case with Trail Tamer Gears from Advance Adapters this summer. Also probably gut 82 for stabilizer and track bars for rear end (Pepper so tall), sun roof, bucket seats, and even more old Yota Chrome. I wanna have the truck so no inspector could even try to fail it, with the inspection done at the Toyota dealership. Perfect.
All work done outside, and there is still tonnes of body, and under work to do. So weather hampers operations often, as I have to board up the windows on the house as there is so much snow. Thanks for your help - much appreciated. pix up soon.

 

with a 7" lift consider a dropped drag link but sounds like with BC law you can't even do that. Seems like you will end up with some serious drive line angles too, are you going to cut and rotate the birfield housings too?

Post up some pictures, sounds like a great truck--curious about the datsun box...kind of a hybrid...

 

YES .. I know ... but did you know , here in BC , it is also NOT legal to weld to your frame ? ... you know how many SAS toys are out there ? frame repairs ? just like yours , My DD frame is fish plated .. (for 8 years now) NO problem .

If it's done profesionally .. you'll not have a problem .. the inspectors will see this , and pass it .. they just look to see if things are done right . If it looks like crap , it wont pass . if things are done right , then you'll be ok .

I have one in right now ... If your questioning .. I will sell you mine , and do another . $125.00 + core and freight ..




I ABSOLUTLY would NOT recommend ANY Toyota dealer for an inspection ..

as Toyota Management for 20 Years in my carear .. the Techs are INSTALLERS only , and dont know squat about toyota trucks ... I would find a good qualified 4X4 shop .. and have them do it .



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Yes, I can use my toy400 - 7" drop, adjustable drag link, luckily. Your right about toyota dealership, but I wanna show-off a bit, when it's all done.

Front drive line angles still fall under the 30 degrees. This is done w/ over-arc springs, larger shackles, and a pair of 6 degree shims. I have still considered moving the spring perch to further improve angles (lose the shims) and looked at some other high-angle prop shafts for better movement. Nothing, except the drag link not having enough clearance has been a problem, but it wouldn't hurt to go better.
Even now, compared to stock, the drag link really does have enough clearance, but I want more. I wouldn't so much have needed the ball stud flip if I had only gone with a 5" or less lift. I think i will also use a brand new pitman arm for this.

So here is the design for the new ball stud, kinda works the same as a tie rod end. and some pix of the truck. hope you enjoy, and still looking for other ideas.

 

OT: but Cool job on the Bed converion, with the paint job it came out better than I had pictured...

What size tires are you planning on running?

 

I think you should go with a high steer kit, Make it look factory and it should pass no problem, it would also be alot safer for anyone riding in the vehicle aswell, steering is not something to mess with and I never really trusted the stock system anyway, and I really would not trust it with a lift. My truck was lifted 4" without the ball flip and it was maxed out at stock ride height, the drag link was binding against the J-Arm and I actually ended up squishing part of it just from driving around in my back yard, I also managed to work it loose with the cotter pins in. I dont see how it would be any different with 7" lift and flipped, the end of the drag link would most likely bind against the J-arm, If not at regular stance then with suspension movement I can see it happening, Also the radius/torque arm probably does not reach with 7" of lift but im sure you already covered that, it is required with the stock steering setup.

A less expensive option might be just to drop it to stock ride height for the inspection then jack it back up later on, but it still wouldn't be safe in my mind.. not just for you but other people on the road too. Maybe even just move it down to something like 4", that is plenty of lift on these old trucks and about where they start getting tippy if you intend to 4 wheel it, you will also get much better results out of a 4" or so spring offroad and ride wise because of less arch.

 

Hey folks I know this is an old thread but i ran into this same problem with this new mystery of an 81/84 toyota 4x4. I removed the ball stud with the press just touching 25tons and a very little bit of heat. I flipped it over and pressed it back in then put it in the vice with the ball stud down I heated the bottom of the ball stud until it was orange and then peened it flat with a good air hammer. Cleaned and painted looks factory.

 

I am currently in the process of doing the ball flip myself. I took my J-arm to the machine shop to have it done, and they had it all day under 20 tons of pressure, and it didn't press out. I did grind the flat part off per the instructions on the marlin crawler link... but it won't budge. I'm guessing that 20 tons may not be enough? My front axle is a 1980 model. Anyone have any advise?

 

50 ton press is ideal


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I finally got it after blowing 2 60 ton press cylinders. That dude was in there! I ended up using a truck repair shops 100 ton press to get it.

 

I ordered mine right from sky jacker. They flipped the ball and welded it. I wish I would have known this, for I would have saved 340 $. I could have welded it myself. Just my input. Good luck!!

 

My question is, is do you flip the ball stud on the j-arm And the pitman arm? I ended up cutting my link am flipping one side around to make it work temporarily.

 

When you use the reverse steering arm ( or ball flipped), you will need a adjustable drag link. Also if you are going to use the brake torsion bar, then you will need the adapter. That should be all you need.