talkin about balljoint spacers
#1
talkin about balljoint spacers
ok i was thinkin about making my own bj spacers and i was wondering if a 2 inch bj would be ok or is it goin to put to much strain on the cvs. cause im goin to leave the tortion bars alone
Last edited by 4runnerguy; Jan 7, 2008 at 08:24 PM.
#4
Contributing Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 10
From: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
I would just go with the 1.5" My cv's with the 1.5" spacer and no t-bar adjustment, look about as much as I want to go.
all the same my camber adjustments are 100% maxed out and its not perfectly aligned
all the same my camber adjustments are 100% maxed out and its not perfectly aligned
#5
do 2" bj spacer and the relax he torsion bars half an inch for a better ride but still a good amount of lift. personally I'm only doing a 1.5" bj spacer for ease and the fact that i can't make my own.
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#11
I strongly suggest you do not do a 2" spacer. I put a lot of energy into assessing how far the suspension can drop before the CV's bind. The 1.5" has a safe margin, the 2" does not. It's your truck though. I would at least say to undo the ball joints at full droop and with tire removed, drop the suspension with a jack 2". Then, spin the hubs by hand and see if you feel any binding.
If you use low profile compression bumpstops, you can get decent and reliable travel out of your truck with the 1.5" spacer. Check out our customer rides page and you can see for yourself.
As for material, steel is totally unnecessary and you will need a good band saw (with cooling) and lots of patience/stamina (and possibly blades) to cut spacers out of 1.5" steel plate (forget 2"). Aluminum is fine and will cut faster.
Frank
If you use low profile compression bumpstops, you can get decent and reliable travel out of your truck with the 1.5" spacer. Check out our customer rides page and you can see for yourself.
As for material, steel is totally unnecessary and you will need a good band saw (with cooling) and lots of patience/stamina (and possibly blades) to cut spacers out of 1.5" steel plate (forget 2"). Aluminum is fine and will cut faster.
Frank
#12
I strongly suggest you do not do a 2" spacer. I put a lot of energy into assessing how far the suspension can drop before the CV's bind. The 1.5" has a safe margin, the 2" does not. It's your truck though. I would at least say to undo the ball joints at full droop and with tire removed, drop the suspension with a jack 2". Then, spin the hubs by hand and see if you feel any binding.
If you use low profile compression bumpstops, you can get decent and reliable travel out of your truck with the 1.5" spacer. Check out our customer rides page and you can see for yourself.
As for material, steel is totally unnecessary and you will need a good band saw (with cooling) and lots of patience/stamina (and possibly blades) to cut spacers out of 1.5" steel plate (forget 2"). Aluminum is fine and will cut faster.
Frank
If you use low profile compression bumpstops, you can get decent and reliable travel out of your truck with the 1.5" spacer. Check out our customer rides page and you can see for yourself.
As for material, steel is totally unnecessary and you will need a good band saw (with cooling) and lots of patience/stamina (and possibly blades) to cut spacers out of 1.5" steel plate (forget 2"). Aluminum is fine and will cut faster.
Frank
Thanks for making good products AND participating on the forum!
#14
thanks for the response elripster one of my friends he is doin it for so im just goin to wait and see. im also have a another friend that works at a steel place and im goin to ask him if he can do them
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