I can't get it off at the transfer case. My socket socket cant get a good grip because of the angle. Do I need to drop the crossmember to get at the bolts?


I feel like an idiot, but I've approached it from every angle with every socket & wrench I have.

 

Um, year, model, engine, tranny would help us a lot.

 

Like TC said, vehicle particulars help out, add them to you signature.
This Link will take you to a link for ONLINE FACTORY SERVICE MANUALS that may also help you out.

 

Oh yeah. 86 4runner 22re 5speed. Thanks

 

Your axles don't connect to the transfer case - they connect to the Differential flange - I believe is the correct term. It's the Diff on the inner side anyways.

I did mine recently and the only way I could undo the bolts was like 1 or 2 at a time with a nice long open ended wrench. I had the same problem with sockets - just couldn't get them over the bolt.

Make sure you are undoing the right side - the other side is a Stud pressed into the flange, so ain't gonna budge if you try and undo em from that side - Looks very much like it's a Nut / Bolt setup, but it's a stud - Believe me

So ya undo the lowest one - then jack up the front wheel and rotate the tire so the next bolt is low down and accessible - Repeat until you have them all off. You can then use a C-Clamp and a Socket to press out a couple of studs , or whale on them with a Brass Hammer, which makes getting the clearance to remove the axles alot easier.

I eventually reverted to undoing the upper Ball Joint and rotating the whole front Hub assembly outwards to get the clearance on mine - Made things alot easier.

Good luck!

 

just curious how removing the upper ball joint would help the OP get the front driveshaft out? Maybe I missed something....

 

Oh crap - it was late. Thought he was talking about Axles. My bad! DOH!

 

I've never had to lower the crossmember to get to the T-case flange nuts.

After you get the dust shield off, you should be able to get to the nuts OK.
The trick is in the place you choose to put your wrench. I think the TOP OUTER position is the easiest to get a socket on. I use a plain old 3/8 6 point craftsman shorty socket with a long extension after that.

Rotate the driveshaft to get to the next nut. Don't try to get it from the back of the flange, the bolts are probably still pressed into the t-case flange and won't turn.

maybe try a wobble head extension to give you a little wiggle room down at the flange.