just picked up a set of KC's but I really dislike their harness. Its to short, stupidly done and has it set up so I MUST connect a certain line to a 12v source (they want you to tape the lights, I aint doing that) in order for them to work.

So I am gonna build my own harness and all but my issue is the diagram I got has a switch with only a ground and a 12v prong on it. The switch I have lights up and has a ground, 12v in and 12v out.

So I am assuming I can wire it as if it were the 2 prong switch? I dunno wtf else to do here b/c I am confused. My other lights I wired directly in using the switch and an inline fuse b.c they are low powered back ups. But this is different, idon t want the switch handling that much power.

Here is the diagram I am gonna use and all. Only difference is power is coming from an auxiliary fusebox not the battery.

 

all u have to do is extend the wires

 

 

Um I am not using the KC lights wiring. I dislike the general harness and it says blatantly it wont work unless its tapped for a 12v source or the headlights (its another wire that comes off) which makes it way more complicated. All I am gonna do is tap the fuseblock tot he relay, relay to lights and switch and call it a day. Simpler and less mess overall..

So what do I do with the 3 prong switch and the relay then? My confusion comes b/c all the diagrams I get are tapped to the headlights or show a 2 prong switch with just a connection to the relay and a ground.

Would the 3 prong work if I just grounded it and tapped it into the relay is what I wanna know or do I need to do something else?

 

The diagram posted by Corey is what you want to use. Instead of a headlight tap to charge the relay , you can tap into a 12v accessory of your choice, all depending on when you want the lights to be available

 

So it sounds like you just want to go the "other way" for the lights..you are getting 12v from fusebox under hood, to relay, to switch,,,then your switch is just completeing the ground.

 

I have all mine wired up as show above minus the headlight tie in but direct to the battery 4 on one switch(bumper pre runner bar) and 4 on another switch(roof bar)all work well with this set up. I did however also ground the switchs so they would light up when in the on position.

 

Yea, just talked to someone I know who is way knowledgeable about this.

He said if the switch has 3 prongs wire it so you have a 12v in, a 12v out and a ground. Add an inline fuse holder (larger blade type) to the incoming before the switch).

I doubt its gonna fry anything this way, his truck is wired the same way and he has had 0 issues he said. I have a 30amp int he fuseblock itself and another 30amp inline so it cant fry. Could also do a circuity breaker too he said.

I totally appreciate everyones help but those damn relays imho are worthless besides distributing power without splicing stuff. 14 gauge wire will be more than enough and I dont have to contend with a relay blowing out, only fuses.

 

This is also generally how I do all of my lights.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f127...4runner-75274/

Did the FJ a little different though, I used IPFs harness.

 

So whats the point of the relay? To switch my power from a small amount to a large amount and be safe?

I would assume the way I wired it hardwiring it would suffice. Its not like I dont mind the relay, just cant figure out how to use the 3 prong switch with it without tapping something else, which gets annoying with all the wires and junk.

Here is the exact switch I am gonna use: http://www.oznium.com/gsw-45-led
And here is how they explain wiring it:
So what I was gonna do is nix the relay like I said and wire the power into #3, then out to the lights with #2.

Am I missing something here?

 

Why would you want to ditch the relay? Just woundering.

 

Cause its more wiring mess and totally uneeded in reality.

I can wire it liek this: from power wire to switch, from switch split into (2) 14 gauge wires to go to lights and voila its utterly simple and literally near impossible to mess up. A fuse comes before switch so the power although its going to the switch the switch is rated to handle it.

Amazingly every single towtruck we have at work we mounted a bunch of 130w KC daylighters on and wired them ourselves b/c the wiring is to short and its a pain to route. All we did was do exactly what I am doing and nothing has gone awry yet.

All the relay does imho is change the power to smaller levels in the switch and means I dont have to feed 2 wires into the cab for the switch and the switch draws less power..

In either case, I dont want a jumble of annoying wires, in my truck there isnt a convenient spot to mount a relay near the firewall and I already have a extra fuse block so I can run a fuse to the wiring.

The back up lights I wired seem to have no issues this way either... I just wanted to make sure that since I am using 100w bulbs i wasnt gonna be screwed. After talking with ym boss, the 3 other fulltime mechanics at my shop they all agreed that its fine if I was to wire it the way I describe.

Friend of mine wired some daylighters on his jeep the same way,. no issues so long as there is an inline fuse of some kind.

That explain you my reasons why lol?? heh..