efi out/carb in
#3
because I keep having trouble with my efi and I stripped all the stuff off a 86 carb'd truck,but I don't know about changing the wiring,I would like to keep the computer ect... just incase the carb idea doesn't work so good.
#4
I dont think you can use the ECU for the carb cause the ecu controls a few things that may keep the motor from working altogether(keep in mind im not 100% about this)... Carbs are much easier to wire than efi and you dont even need an ecu you just need the starter and ignition and fuel and air controls via the carb and your tuning of it. as for wiring a carb, it mixes the air to fuel through itself and you can adjust that yourself and all you should need wired is the starter and relays and ignition to keep the motor running. i know this is very bland of a statment but if i were you i would keep the efi and figure out why its not been working for you
#6
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#9
All emissions related swaps (including complete engines) can only come from the same year or newer vehicle, not an older vehicle.
Fred
#10
I was about to do the same thing on a couple of my trucks....
To do it right, you need to swap the entire wiring harness (all of it) from the carb truck to the fuel injected vehicle.
To jimmy rig it to get it to work, you need to leave the fuel injected harness in it, and the computer, and just find the leads for the oil pressure, coolant temp, and key on power. The oil and coolant leads go to the sending units, the key on power drives the idle solenoid on the carb, IIRC.
You would also need to hook up the alternator as well. Additionally without swapping the harness the check engine light will always be on, and none of the emission stuff is going to work right.
It should be easier to fix the EFI setup.... whats it doing that has you wanting to swap to a carb setup?
To do it right, you need to swap the entire wiring harness (all of it) from the carb truck to the fuel injected vehicle.
To jimmy rig it to get it to work, you need to leave the fuel injected harness in it, and the computer, and just find the leads for the oil pressure, coolant temp, and key on power. The oil and coolant leads go to the sending units, the key on power drives the idle solenoid on the carb, IIRC.
You would also need to hook up the alternator as well. Additionally without swapping the harness the check engine light will always be on, and none of the emission stuff is going to work right.
It should be easier to fix the EFI setup.... whats it doing that has you wanting to swap to a carb setup?
Last edited by colsoncj; Dec 2, 2007 at 10:00 AM.
#11
I agree, it would probably be easier to fix the EFI than to install a carb. You may end up having wiring issues for the rest of the engine that would need to be resolved as well.
By the time you buy everything you need, fixing the EFI might actually be cheaper.
EFI really isn't all the complicated, especially on an older vehicle like yours. It could be as simple as a bad sensor (and it usually is), or a corroded connector (usually easy to fix or splice in a new one), or a bad ground, or something else as simple as that.
I don't know if you know all of the benefits that a properly operating EFI usually delivers compared to a carb, but here they are:
More power.
More torque.
More MPG.
Ability to run at steep angles or on bumpy ground versus flooding like a carb.
Cleaner running, which is not only a benefit to the environment, but it also keeps the combustion chambers and the oil cleaner.
I used to be scared to troubleshoot EFI. But out of necessity, I bought a good shop manual, a multimeter, a code scanner, and started working on it myself. Many times you won't even need all of that, but it does help. Some of that stuff can be bought fairly cheap, and you will save money in the long run. Plus, you will learn something new along the way.
I'd say it's worth keeping the EFI.
By the time you buy everything you need, fixing the EFI might actually be cheaper.
EFI really isn't all the complicated, especially on an older vehicle like yours. It could be as simple as a bad sensor (and it usually is), or a corroded connector (usually easy to fix or splice in a new one), or a bad ground, or something else as simple as that.
I don't know if you know all of the benefits that a properly operating EFI usually delivers compared to a carb, but here they are:
More power.
More torque.
More MPG.
Ability to run at steep angles or on bumpy ground versus flooding like a carb.
Cleaner running, which is not only a benefit to the environment, but it also keeps the combustion chambers and the oil cleaner.
I used to be scared to troubleshoot EFI. But out of necessity, I bought a good shop manual, a multimeter, a code scanner, and started working on it myself. Many times you won't even need all of that, but it does help. Some of that stuff can be bought fairly cheap, and you will save money in the long run. Plus, you will learn something new along the way.
I'd say it's worth keeping the EFI.
Last edited by William; Dec 2, 2007 at 11:18 AM.
#14
Contributing Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,659
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From: Between a rock and a hard place, AZ
I also hated how my carbed 22R would stall out in certain off-camber situations, whereas my EFI'd 22RE never did.
#15
I sure wish I had of kept the wiring harness out of the old 86 I had before it went to the scrapyard.but maybe the fuel pump can be opened and cleaned/lubed,and the tank repaired,I already know where to get another efi intake.I just realy liked the idea/simplisity of the carb setup.
#16
Contributing Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,659
Likes: 0
From: Between a rock and a hard place, AZ
I sure wish I had of kept the wiring harness out of the old 86 I had before it went to the scrapyard.but maybe the fuel pump can be opened and cleaned/lubed,and the tank repaired,I already know where to get another efi intake.I just realy liked the idea/simplisity of the carb setup.
But don't NOT do it just because I personally don't like carburetors.
I got bit once, when I was a kid.
#18
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f147...56/index3.html
#20
hmm, id say probably not. You should be able to pull it out of the tank and just replace the literal pump. You shouldnt need to replace the whole assembly. unfortunately it looks like just the pump is $130...


