So, my 88 4Runner is making horrible noises in the ass, and I'm about certain it's a ujoint. I recall, on the mustang I did, that you just basically pop off snap rings and push it to one side, pull the cap, then the other...then repeat with the other two.

My question is, do I have to pull my rear driveshaft to change the rear ujoint? That makes the process sound like a much bigger pain in the ass. The driveshaft bolts to the rear axle, and just slides into the transfer case right?

I've been doing surgery to my truck once a week, and frankly I'm getting beat up over it. I just finished replacing the timing belt tensioner that was blown to pieces, along with a failed alternator, and now I have a bad front caliper and this ujoint complaining.

I just want to be clear so I can knock it out and be done with problems for the winter.

 

you can probably do it with the dshaft on the truck but i wouldn't bother - it's only eight or ten bolts and the thing pops right off. if your driveshaft is at all rusty you'll find it hard to get the caps off - i had to weld a socket to mine and wail on it till the socket broke in half just to get it to budge a few mm. if you have a buddy with a press it'll make it easier.

i think there's two types, one has the c-clips on the outside of the bearing caps and one has them on the inside.

 

You have a 2 piece driveshaft....before you remove the lower section make sure you mark the splines such that you can put it back into the same splines later. That way, you won't get any vibrations.
I imagine the UJ will be very hard to remove....it will likely take a press and some finesse. Not all u-joints were created equal.....factory ones are the best....and I have had good luck with a PDQ brand one from PepBoys.....I think it's part number 1260 or 1266????
I had the exact same UJ(nearest the rear diff) on my 88 Runner literally fall apart.

 

if you dont take it out now, youl be taking it out again. 1 week by your schedule.
do both ends and be done with it!
it should then last another 20years.

 

Sorry to thread jack but say i just replaced my rear most u-joints and forgot to mark it and now it vibrates like hell. Anyways to fix this?

 

Man...thanks for the tips, especially on that driveshaft spline marking thing!

I think the only good thing on my side is the guy who owned the truck before me replaced both of the ujoints. He may have used some ty ones, but I imagine with the 35's and stock gearing they see alot of load.

I guess it's gonna be a little project here....sheesh.

 

Rotate it! Start with a 180 degrees and back it off 90 degrees left and right (clockwise, counter clockwise) from there. Pick the one that vibrates less. If you want to fine tune from there, be my guest. I feel for you, I really do. I had no idea they need to be balanced to the mount (ARE YOU GUY'S SURE ON THIS?). I just always put them back where they came from.

 

So pretty much just keep rotating it through the splines till its back to the way it was?cuz i rode smooth before//this is gona take a long time

 

Check this link.....part way down page for example of phase.

Basicly, the yokes at each end of the shaft line up with each other.

http://www.clubfte.com/users/jniolon...nephasing.html

 

Now that makes sense.