Ok so my valve covers where leaking on a truck i just got a month ago so today i took it upon myself to change them. Got me some perma-dry felpro's and there good to go. That Egr and vacuum stuff on the left was a pain. Well get it all buttoned up and take it out and it seems to want to idle higher than normal. Now from what i have read these things idle high until warmed up. Now i live in ohio so at this time a car may take 10min to heat up. I got a fresh zerex coolant flush with a 195 stat. My problem seems to be that the truck idles high almost all the time. Lowest i will see is 800 though which sounds about right. Normally highest idle i see is 1500 when cold now it seems to hit 2000. Just a pain to have this on a truck that eats gas as it is. Was wondering if there was a way to get rid of this problem like soldering in a resistor in the switch it reads from? Also is there anything wrong with my truck?

 

Yeah, they will idle up around 1000rpm (+/-) until the coolant temp sensor reads that it's up to operating temp. Then, it should idle back down.

Run through the troubleshooting list here under high idle speed:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...63troubles.pdf

If it didn't do this before the repair, it's probably something real simple like a bad connection somewhere. Maybe something got knocked loose.

EDIT: Some deposits during the flush may have also gotten blocked up in the sensor cluster behind the plenum. Incidentally, that's where the coolant temp sensor is.

As far as soldering in a resistor somewhere, I'd wait to do anything like that as a last resort. Find the problem first...if you can.

 

Double check all of your air intake and vacuum hoses. You probably have a small leak somewhere. If you still have the problem, change your thermostat and coolant - you may have knocked some crud loose. If your t-stat has crud stuck in it, it won't close fully and the engine will never get warm enough to come out of high-idle. If none of this works then adjust the idle screw - it's rare for it to move from taking the intake chamber off, but it can happen.

 

Vacuum leak.

Double check all the vac lines. Be sure to check the big one going to the pair reed valve as it can be a MF to attach when putting the intake back down.

 

Ever since i bought my 3.0 10K miles ago, it has always ran 1,500 cold until it warms up. It then drops to a normal 800rpm. Should it be more around 1,000 cold? I just figured it was normal?