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22re rebuild rant

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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 12:24 AM
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From: milwaukee, WI baby muddin in the streets!!
22re rebuild rant

1987 22re sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! when your doing a rebuild why is it that you have to drop the front diff to drop the oil pan???? but good news i only span a bearing in the number two its only my 2nd day at this and tomorrow im going out and getting everything to do the rebuild she will be done by friday woo whoo
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 12:29 AM
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From: milwaukee, WI baby muddin in the streets!!
oh yeah why do these things have aliummin pistions?
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by just a 22re
oh yeah why do these things have aliummin pistions?

Because tinfoil would be a sin like your spelling.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by paxil4x4
Because tinfoil would be a sin like your spelling.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 06:22 AM
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Cast iron pistons are too expensive to machine. They use aluminum because it can be injection molded like plastic.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 07:06 AM
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You don't have to drop the diff. Unbolt the motor mounts, and jack the engine up. There is barley enough room to squeeze the oil pan out.

However if your REBUILDING THE MOTOR. why the heck didn't you remove the motor and put it on an engine stand. WHO rebuilds a motor IN the truck.

And the 22RE doesn't suck. Maybe its your rebuilding skills

Last edited by 4Hummer; Oct 17, 2007 at 07:59 AM.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 07:28 AM
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i dunno my friends dad rebuilds motors while their still in the car. barely enuf room, but he does it. he also looks like hes about 90lbs soaking wet.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 09:08 AM
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i dont have to drop the front diff or lift the engine at all...it could be because of the sas though
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 09:15 AM
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I found that it comes right out if you jack the truck up by the transmission cross member. It lets the suspension drop, and the pan comes right out.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 11:09 AM
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From: austin, tx
Originally Posted by just a 22re
1987 22re sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! when your doing a rebuild why is it that you have to drop the front diff to drop the oil pan????
IT's designed that way to encourage you to do a proper rebuild, which would mean actually removing the block from the engine bay...

Then agian, I have this thing against "rebuilt motors" that haven't actually been removed and rebuilt... Just freshened up with a new set of bearings on a worn crank and perhaps a set of rings... :-)
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 08:33 PM
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From: milwaukee, WI baby muddin in the streets!!
yeah well i dont have all the thing to do a rebuild with it out and this is my 4th rebuild with it still in the engine bay so ha i like doing it this way its easier
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 08:57 PM
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From: INDIANA
and in these 4 rebuilds how many miles did you get in between them?
it took us 6 hours tonight to put a 22ret back together still have to swap intakes
but it is almost ready to put back in.

Last edited by CyMoN; Nov 1, 2007 at 11:21 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 09:01 AM
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It would take less time to pull then it would be to get the oil pan off.
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 11:17 AM
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From: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co.
Originally Posted by paxil4x4
Because tinfoil would be a sin like your spelling.
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 06:47 PM
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From: austin, tx
Originally Posted by just a 22re
yeah well i dont have all the thing to do a rebuild with it out and this is my 4th rebuild with it still in the engine bay so ha i like doing it this way its easier
Last time I checked, it was easier to do a rebuild with it out.

How do you have the block decked with it still in the truck? :-)
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dcg9381
Last time I checked, it was easier to do a rebuild with it out.

How do you have the block decked with it still in the truck? :-)
I'm guessing belt sander
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 07:08 PM
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If you just need to reseal the oil pan, do the timing chain, etc, its not that much trouble to drop the front diff out of there, and then you can do it right, and, while its out, knock out a couple tulip bolts so it wont be so difficult to change your CV joints when that inevitable time arrives. its kinda heavy, but have someone help you oof it back up there. We've had them in and out several times.

You are not 'rebuilding' your engine unless you pull it, disassemble it and get it machined back to proper tolerances, reassemble in clean conditions. If I'm gonna mess around in there, I'm gonna take the extra time, spend the money, and only do it ONCE every 300k miles. :-) The 22r is one of the most robust little four bangers ever invented.

just my two cents
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 07:14 PM
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From: Richmond , Va / Henrico Co.
22re engine rebuild

Originally Posted by just a 22re
yeah well i dont have all the thing to do a rebuild with it out and this is my 4th rebuild with it still in the engine bay so ha i like doing it this way its easier
Well I would imagine if its not warped or damaged in any way it doesn't need it , I would remove block and have it checked , if it doesn't need it then don't do it .
Or you can do like the old old school guys and check it with a straight edge .
Are you at least honing and using new rings or bypassing the ring's,piston's and wrist pin's altogether ?
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by paxil4x4
Because tinfoil would be a sin like your spelling.


Bwhahahhahahhaahahh!!!!!!!!!

vmax84
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Old Oct 19, 2007 | 08:12 PM
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For a proper rebuild you cannot build a light truck engine in the frame. The block needs to be tanked to clean out all the oil passages and remove scale. Plus all the freeze plugs should be changed at the same time. The way he is going about is a Tijuana rebuild at its finest.
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