OK, here's the deal i'm pretty sure i'm going to buy this and do a full restore on this bad boy. Let me know what you guys think:
85' 4runner 108,000 miles 22RE new head gasket and new clutch. Obviously needs alot of body and suspension components and a TON of sanding and grinding plus some frame coating.

here are the pics:

the bads:










the good:










I think it would be a great project and has lots of potential! And for the price i don't think i can go wrong ($600).
So let here what you guys think.

 

sounds like a good deal if all else fails u most likely can part it out 4 more

 

I'd buy just about anything that ran and drove reasonably well. Even if it would take a bit of work.

My friend recently bought a 84 mustang for 400 bucks and sold it for like 2000, while only putting 1200 in it. He basically doubled up....

 

That is about what i was thinking. I need to make sure the frame isnt bent (check for dog tailing) and if it is straight it's as good as mine. Thanks for the input!

Now i just need to find a place to store it for the winter while i gather parts...
Any buddy know what standard rates are for storage units?

 

Paid 400$.. Put in 1200$.. =1600$..Sold for 2000$.. Sounds like he MIGHT have made 400$.. Doubling up would be he sold it for 3,200$.. But how much time did he have in? I dont know about you guys but my time is worth almost 12$ an hour which is what I make at work and side jobs.. If he had anywhere near 40 hours in.. Your friend lost money..haha

But I think this guy is making it for himself, not for profit, and in that light, time would make no difference to me as I would be enjoying it.

600$ bucks for that runner sounds like the guy would be getting what its worth in parts, I mean, the frame looked pretty rust, I would try and get it for like 450$ or 500.. Cash talks, show up with some hundreds and 50's and he might give you a better deal.

Miles are low.. Why was the head gasket replaced? Did it overheat?? I mean obviously the guy doesn't know how to drive a clutch or he is lying to you about it being new with only 108,000 on it. So if he cant drive a clutch then he probably didnt replace it himself, does he have recites for the replacement? Recites for the head gasket? If he doesnt claim you have no way to know it was done and that a clutch is 260$ (even though we all know it isnt).

Engine looks clean.. How new is the battery, radiator condition? Break lines? Leaf Springs? When buying something for around 500 dollars, if it needs a battery, radiator, or break lines you just added a couple hundred in parts and effort.. Making it a 700$ vehicle, which might make it just plain not worth its original price and you need to negotiate it down based on those needs or find a new one. Add up all the parts, time and effort, that will go into this vehicle on a big list and then decide what price is reasonable and if your willing to pay it.

Good luck!! I sure hope things work out! I hope I helped!!

 

What are your plans for it? If you don't have garage space to work on it in I'd probably pass. If you can get the body off the frame before you de-rust it you'll have a much, much easier time.

Expect lots of hidden stuff that'll need replaced due to the rust, it will really add up. My project runner was 750, maybe a little less rust, a lot less body damage, interior wasn't that clean. It's becoming clear to me that I'll easily be at a couple thousand total by the time I have the rust, suspension, bodywork all back to stockish.

A couple specific things on that one. I'll bet at least the last 12-24" of the frame are swiss cheese, probably the spare tire hanger too. Make sure you drop the spare and check it out. How did the tie-rod get bent? If it was from the accident then the front axle, and steering arms might be tweaked too.

 

That frame looks pretty rusty. I would make sure that it isn't rusted all the way through in hidden areas before you buy. I was messing around yesterday trying to figure out how much it would cost to totally rebuild a runner from the ground up. I made this list and seperated the chassis, motor, body and interior. If you total up the list as is it's over 22K !! You could save in many places, for instance the trans, transfer case and diffs are going directly to Marlin instead of doing it yourself. There are probably a lot more little things I forgot on the list too.

Usually it's better to start with a rig that's been built up a little already (if you are planning to build it up that is)

85 Totoyta rock crawler 4 runner Parts estimate (8/14/07)

Chassis and drivetrain (except motor)
Front lift Marlin. 1649.00
Rear lift Marlin 600.00
High steer TG 299.00
Steering box (rebuilt) 250.00
Steering box mount Marlin 60.00
Steering cooler and OS resovoir 75.00
Hydro assist TG 300.00
knuckle kits/wheel bearings Marlin 160.00
Dual transfer case Marlin 1600.00
Cross member Bud Built 210.00
Rebuilt Transmission Marlin 1000.00
5.29 gears F/R and Detroit lockers Marlin 2000.00
Driveshaft mods and HD tubing, long slip front 800.00
Clutch LUK Gold 200.00
Clutch master and slave cyl 100.00
Heavy Flywheel 30lb. 175.00
5 - 2" backspace wheels/powdercoated 450.00
5- 36 inch IROK Bias ply 1000.00
Front bumper 350.00
Rear Bumper 300.00
Rock Sliders 200.00
Exo Cage 2000.00
Grill, headlight surrounds, running lights, signals, tail lights, mirrors 200.00
Brake master Marlin 130.00
Front Calipers 120.00
Rear wheel cyls 50.00
Brake lines 90.00
Drums and rotors and pads 200.00
30 spline Longfiels and hub gears 800.00

Motor
Rebuilt motor w/new head, oil pump, timing chain, timing cover 1100.00
Cam 100.00
Rockers 100.00
3 core radiator 140.00
New Starter (Toy reman) 175.00
New water pump 45.00
New fuel pump 250.00
New Altenator (Toy Reman) 175.00
Clutch Fan 75.00
Hoses and belts 50.00
Fuel Injectors 300.00
Header 250.00
Exhaust Cat Conv pipe and muffler 300.00
AC recharge and new drier 200.00
motor oil, syn trans, transfer and diff oil, syn PS fluid, brake Fl, coolant, grease 100.00

Body
Full paint job with Omni and PPG clear materials (prime and paint not inc. body work) 1500.00
Full body and rust repair (Avg.) 800.00
New Windshield, side windows and rear sliding window 450.00
Cleans and paint underside of body 150.00

Interior
New seats 300.00
Carpet kit 200.00

 

I just bought my 84 back from a guy in Minneapolis. He kept this one garaged to keep it rust free, but his other truck, an 85, was a combination of an 86 on and 85 frame. That might be an option for you. Basically, go out and find a rust free or one with less rust and straight, but no engine or tranny, etc...and buy it for the good stuff.

 

If the frame isn't bent, I say have it sandblasted and put some POR-15 on it.
(if it's in the budget and you are keeping the truck)

 

I'm with ya...if the price was right that is....

Then again...I might just be cheap.

 

You can see the steering arm is bent in the pic of the axle as if it was pushed on both sides and it gave in the middle a little bit. I would make sure the section of frame where the accident was is not in a similar state. Other than that...go for it

 

you and me both....I don't have the money to spend on the two I have now, much less buying another....If I did though...

 

Sorry I misspoke, because I think he made 800 off the sale.....I don't know. Doesn't really matter.

 

Doesnt look too bad for a 22 year old Minnesota truck.

The tie rod looks like its frowning tho

 

For $600 I would buy it and use the 22RE in my '81.

 

Buy it for parts

 

That's one of the best cost breakdowns I've seen - thanks for the info. There's always something I forget......

 

Well, it runs, and it's got the 22RE and the solid front axle. If nothing else, find a cheap, but decent 86 and older 4Runner with a blown up motor, and swap that good one in, and swap in the SFA, and you've got one helluva trail rig.