I recently purchased a 92 3.0 p/u and I'm afraid of over heating due to Toyota's "not moving till it's too late" temp gauge. I want to install a digital gauge, but I don't know 1) if I'll need a sender and 2) where to mount it. I'm not about to start drilling holes in things that shouldn't have holes.

 

I'm installing one right now too, I'm thinking about cutting the top radiator hose and connecting it back together using a section of pipe (drilled and tapped for the sensor) and hose clamps.

I've also heard of guys drilling and tapping the aluminum manifold thingy that the upper radiator hose connects to at the front of the engine.

I've also heard that the coolant block drain plug (by the motor mount) can be taken out and replaced with the sensor.

But I'm open to more ideas myself.

 

Haven't done it on a 3.0L, but I've done it on a 22RE. You'll need the sensor. Most sensors seem to be 3/8 NPT.. Find a place to drill/tap.

 

On a 22R series engine.

Order the outlet pipe from a 22RTE engine. It has a boss on it for an OEM temp sensor. Now it measures the temp AFTER the thermostadt. So sometimes its not gonna read what ya think it will (thermo is closed). But then again it will tell you when a thermo is stuck closed.

Another way is to build a voltage follower to read the voltage across the OEM EFI temp sensor (much more accurate than the dash sensor - yes on a 22RE there are seperate sensors).

 

That's probably what I will end up doing. Any issues with the integrity of the PVC?

And I just placed an order for the Odyssey Water Temp with a 3/8" NPT Sender from DakotaDigital. We'll see how the install goes in a couple of days. Need to create plan of attack now.

 

I'd be leary of plastic pipe, I'm going to use metal. Probably steel just because I have a small piece of it the right size already. Aluminum or brass might be better if you can find some the right size.

 

Check out Autometer part #s
2280, 2281, 2282, 2283

http://www.autometer.com/cat_accesso...st.aspx?pid=15

 

You'd have to check and see if those sizes are the hose sizes or the barb fitting sizes. I already picked up a 1 1/2" barb fitting at Ace hardware and it is too big (it measures 1.64" OD). The plain steel pipe I've found that should work is 1.50" OD/ 1.25 ID and it is a pretty tight squeeze to get the hose over it. My upper hose (5VZFE) is 1.31" ID. The radiator fitting (ideal) is 1.35" OD on the small part of the neck amd 1.41" OD on the raised bump part.

I don't know about using the heater hose, is there always flow though those or is it just when the heater is on?

 

BTW - if this is replacing the stock guage - why not stick the probe in the OEM dash sensor position and disconnect the OEM guage?

On a 22RE its kinda tight to drill/machine a new hole in the lower intake....
Depending on the model - there are some SLIGHT differens and there might be a boss area to use...

 

I'm wanting to keep the factory dash gauge myself, even though it's just a hair better than an idiot light.

 

I'm keeping the factory too. I'm just going to mount the digital right below it. I got a nice square one, so it should fit well.


Is there going to be an issue with drilling the metal for the sender and keeping a seal?

 

Nope.

If its a "pipe" thread use a small amount of teflon pipe dope.

BTW - the drill idea is alot of work. Id only do it if the intake manifold were off for some reason..(assuming yer drilling into the intake)

 

The acura rsx's has have diggie auto temp determine there install points and go from there! =)

 

I think after drilling & tapping the pipe, I'll use a big dab RTV silicone and let it dry for a day. Permatex makes an RTV for water pump housings which should work well. I'm thinking because of the thinness of the pipe wall there may not be enough threads to seal just using teflon tape. BTW my sender threads are 1/8" pipe threads but it came with 3 different adapters for different sizes of threads.