I am looking for a BL for a 91 wih an auto. I keep finding kits that say for manual trans only. Somebody clue me in as to why the trans make a difference.


I am so new to this and soooo confused.

 

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...html#ATbracket

 

Thanks!!

 

x2 for 4Crawler

 

x3 for 4crawler

 

Or, do it "right" and put that body lift to use as it's designed to be used.
Get a cross member from BudBilt that raises the xfer case/tranny up 2".
No worries about the shifter AND you get to gain clearance under the vehicle by moving the xfer case/tranny combo up 2".

Neer understood why one would do a body lift and not take advantage of everything that it provides.
Tuck the xfer case/tranny up, move the gas tank up, etc.






Fred

 

x2!

get the 4crawler body lift, and while you're at it, order the engine mount spacers from him too. the a budbuilt tcase xmember...and you're golden!

 

how's that on the driveshafts?

 

Personally I like having the engine and tranny lower from the body and wouldn't waste my money on the lifts for them.

A few noteble points:

I can do a fuel filter in 10 minutes and I have big hands.

Even before the bracket lift I could get my oil pan off by jacking up the motor without having to drop the front diff.

Everything on my truck is easier to work on with the bl installed. If you have ever done a timing chain and head replacement on a truck without a bl and on a truck with one, you'll see that raising the engine and tranny just isn't worth it.

I wouldn't worry about driveshaft angle though if you do lift it unless you plan on doing a bracket lift too so you can run 35's. It wouldn't be any worse than a suspension lift alone.

 

personally, I'll bash my knuckles all week in my driveway to avoid bashing my tcase/gas tank on the rocks on the trails.

also, a drivetrain lift doesn't cost almost any more than just a body lift (not including the budbuilt xmember. but you can run that with or without the drivetrain lift). especially for an Auto tranny. just looking at 4Crawlers site. motor and tcase mount spacers cost less than radiator drop brackets and the AT brackets.

 

You obvious don't play where clearance is a premimum

You can run 35's without a bracket lift, or even much of a lift at all.
In any case the bracket lifts don't hold up on the type of terrain that we wheel in..




Fred

 

No problem at all with the driveshafts.
Heck, compared to the Jeeps (where I came from, having wheeled a '98 TJ for years) the driveshafts on the 4Runners/Trucks are really, really long.






Fred

 

Actually I was kind of making a point.

By ignoring other wheeling environments in my post by saying I'd rather leave mine down I was indirectly pointing out that you guys had done the same without saying it.

Did anyone find out where this guy wheels before recommending the blanket "raise the drivetrain" to him?

For my needs I am really happier with the drivetrain in the stock location because everything is so much easier to work on. Not only would a drivetrain lift not be needed for me, it would just make the truck harder to work on and cost me more money. Around here it's mud and sand. That's it. If he was crawling rocks he wouldn't be interested in a bl.

 

i'm gonna run 35's with no lift

 

Yup, that's probably what I'll do (or with just 1.5" ~ 2" of suspension lift) after the 33's.
Use a 2" body lift.
Push up the xfer case/tranny.
Push up the gas tank.
Use fiberglass front fenders (much, much more room).
Open up the rear wheel wells.
Maybe do the bj spacer and 1.5" ~ 2" coils in the rear (and shocks all around).

Nice low COG.
Ride quality will be stock or very close to it (depending if I end up using the BJ spacers and rear coils or not).
Everything lifted up out of the way.





Fred

 

If he were crawling rocks (as I do) he should be VERY interested in a bl and the huge advantages that it provides.






Fred