I went real wheeling for the first time last night since I installed my cruiser coils/bj spacers and I'm having the problem of my rear driveshaft hitting my gas tank. It scared the crap out of me at first because I honestly had no idea what it was, but afterwards my friend just had to say "driveshaft" for me to realize that was the problem. I read a little, but it seems like there's no definite answer on how to fix it. It looks like its hitting in two places, on the skid plate and a little on the actual tank. I have a panhard drop bracket which I thought was supposed to help but what's another way to prevent this.


dang i write a lot.

 

Mine hits the tank under some twisted conditions.

My tank and skid are really beat up and bulge out on the bottom. It only holds about 13 gallons now.

My plan is to drop the skid plate, weld on some plate up the inside of the skid to 1: stiffen the skidplate. 2: Give the driveshaft something else to beat against instead of the tank's metal.

 

yeah but thats still not good for the driveshaft...i'm looking for more a fixing solution than a bandaid.

 

Dropped panhard bracket:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...anhardDropBrkt



Or get the panhard bar lengthened or get an adjustable one or get a smaller OD drive shaft built.

 

tell the tank to hit back ...

 

fix it for real?

1. Remove the tank. It just gets beat up and kills your ground clearance down there anyways.

2. Triangulated 4 link (get rid of the panhard bar)

 

i have the panhard drop bracket from you 4crawler...but i dont know it still does it. this is only when the passenger side is fully flexed.

 

You'd have a little less chance of scrapage with a skinnier driveshaft, no?
He's my notion, you've got the thicker, substantially, V6/Turbo version. I've seen the thinner 4cyl models, but then you gotta get one the right length, and new flanges, possibly.

 

wow, that makes me want to not do my lift! is this a serious issue?

i've got no solution for you, sorry. i just wanted the subscription!

 

no i dont think it is, its not like its pressing into it full force, the biggest issue is the stupid skid plate that comes up on the side, i'm thinking of pounding it down or something, but then it just barely touches the actual tank, and i'm talking as stuffed as you can get it. part of the problem may be my 31s are letting me flex a little too much and bigger tires would prevent it from getting too close.

 

i thought you said in you build up that you had just got 33's?

 

You can trim/bend back part of the skid plate if needed, it is mainly the side/edge of the skid that hits, not the bottom.

Or get the rear shaft re-tubed at a driveshaft shop. This writeup talks about going from stock (3"/thinwall ) to a heavy wall, 2.5" OD tubing:
- http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/ar....jsp?id=186350
You'll end up with a shaft that won't dent/bend if it contacts a rock on the trail.

 

I don't think mine hits as much now with my 33's. That and it has pretty much clearanced itself (skid is now bent over out of the way).

 

nah i might've said i was about to go to 33's...but then some stuff came up and i havent had the money to buy them.

thanks 4crawler i'm probably going to do that with the skid later today.

 

I know you can trim it with a grinder and bend it, but seeing how you hacked your shock with a grinder, I wouldn't try it while the skid is on the tank.

 

hahaha that was kind of a freak accident, i might try it with a dremel and just cut out a rectangle of what i need out. then i'll be less likely to cut through the gas tank like i did that shock.

 

even stock there are times that it will contact it - At least mine did when I was under full flex going around a corner to avoid an accident & got t-boned

 

Yea, just run on Pure Oxygen. Those new engines really have a lot of HP when you remove the fuel tank....who needs gasoline anyways.

 

I guess I should have said "relocate the tank" figuring there was gonna be some smartass out there...

 

haha Thats me, smartass #1!!