I just replaced the timing chain, guides, and tensor not 500 miles ago and it just starting making the tell tail jingle sounds on my 89 4runner. When I changed the timing components last time I didnt remove the oilpan. This time I want to see the pick up screen and make sure I dont have gunk blocking my pickup screen. I realize however that I need to lower the diff and disconect the steering linkage for this, as I dont have a suspension lift that is adequate to remove the pan currently. After laying underneith the my truck for a while I think I see what bolts I need to remove to lower the diff, but wanted to tap the experience on this page and make sure I wasnt going to have the engine drop on my face while Im under there.
Anyways on to the actual question. I am thinking there are 6 bolts to be removed, two on either side of the bar that the rocking joint at the front of the diff is welded to and then the two bolts going through the rubber dougnut bushing mount on either side of the diff. If anyone out there has gone through the proceedure to remove the pan and could give me some pointers I would appreciate it.

 

Its funny you post this.

I replaced my complete t-chain about a year ago...after I replaced it it started jingling again...so 3 months later I decided to redo it. No sooner was it done it starts jingling again...so now im wondering if there is low oil pressure because of the broke plastic peices on the pickup (oil pressure does keep tension on the tensioner right?).

Although I cannot help, I am curious as to what you will find,

keep us posted.

Brendonv

 

Dropping the front diff is pretty easy, and no it won't drop the engine on you...although I've had the diff drop onto my chest(that hurts)

Unbolt your CV axles(pounding out the studs helps too). Undo the bolt on the front crossmember. Then with the diff supported with a jack unbolt the 2 vertical bolts holding it to the frame. To get the 2 vertical bolts off you will probably need a breaker bar. I soaked mine in WD-40 and used a 3' breaker bar(braced against the frame) and my impact gun at 125psi.

Once those bolts are out it will probably take som wiggling but it will come down real easy. But watch out, you'll probably have the jack right under the pumpkin and the diff isn't balanced, so it will tip. 2 people are nice here: 1 to work the jack, one to hold the diff.

The other thing to note is that to get the oilpan off you have to disconnect the steering damper and relay rod. But you only have to pull the relay rod off of EITHER the idler arms or the pitman arm. You can do both to give a bit more room to work, but not needed.

 

Ya I am totally in the same boat as you with the what I feel is low oil pressure not building up enough to keep the chain tight via the tensor, any one else had a simmular situation?

Also thankyou for the note about disconnecting the CV boots. I am guessing tapping the studs through allows you to actually drop the CV boots from the diff correct. Anyways thanks for the help.

 

I just did the timing belt, but I had a lift in my neighbors garage, and it was easy to lower the dif and drop the pan. All kinds of stuff in there to clean out. I did not take the axles off the dif to get the pan off. I just unbolted the large bolts holding the dif up. Lowered the dif down and wiggled the pan out.

Mike

 

Did you find alot of broken peices of tensioner on the pickup?