After a top end refresh I can't get my truck to idle, so because of that, I can't set the timing. When I start it cold, it will idle for about 30 seconds or so until it warms up and then it won't stay idling unless I give it some gas. There is a distinct drop-off when the idle lowers and the truck won't stay running. It runs and sounds great at right around 1k rpm with me pushing slightly on the gas pedal, but if I let go it dies. I haven't messed with the TPS or idle adjuster, and it idled fine before I tore apart the top end so those should be set ok. I tried adjusting the timing just to get it stay running, but no setting works. I had the head machined and I'm not sure if the guy adjusted the valves.. would that cause it to not idle when warm? Or could it be something with a vacuum leak?

Rob

 

Bump. I need to figure this out. We might be getting 5 more inches of snow tomorrow night!

Rob

 

Are all your hoses and vcvs routed properly and no leaks? What all did you do? Head gasket? Have you adjusted the valves yet? It sure sounds like a vacuum leak, not necessarily a hose, could be where the plenums meet or where the injectors meet the intake, etc.

 

No I haven't adjusted the valves yet. I'm leaning towards a vaccum leak also. I'm thinking maybe where you said. I'm about to go out to the garage and test for leaks with wd-40.

Rob

 

Didn't find any vacuum leaks, but with the advice of my old man, I checked the position of the distributer in the head. My Haynes manual says to line it up with how I took it (I'm supposed to remember how it came out? lol j/k) But then I checked 4crawler's site where he says to align the rotor at 12 oclock and it will rotate to where it is close when you install it. Well as soon as I did it 4c's way, I noticed the rotor was pointing to a slightly different place than where it was before. So I was able to get it idling (and right at 750rpm's too) and set the timing. Took it for a drive just now and she runs great! Even though it's 7 degrees here in IL haha.

Rob