Alright... i bought my truck about a year ago with a 3inch body lift to clear the 33x12.5 on the truck now. Now im almost ready to buy a 3inch suspension lift and since i didnt do the body lift, what should i look for to change back when i go back down to stock body height? what do you guys think about maybe cutting the body lift down to 1 inch if it too hard to get stock body location? so far these are the only things i know i need to look out for:

gas tank filler extension
fan shroud was cut so watch that
fix any stretched lines
cut radiator hose shorter
floorboard where the shifter goes through was bent for body lift.

need to buy shoter hardware for the body mounts(where do i find that?)

????????

 

See:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ11

Just remove any brackets, etc. installed with the lift:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ft_HowTo.shtml

 

Bumper brackets. Make sure you use grade 8 hardware and remember, anti-seize is your friend. Good luck.

 

Be very careful when taking off a body lift, do not do one side at a time, you might crack the windshield. I paid a mechanic 100 bucks to remove my 3 inch body lift and when I went to pick it up the windsheild was cracked all the way across...He did it one side at a time...
And if they just streachet the front brake lines instead of installing longer braded ones they might get damaged when the body is lowed back down...Mine were and they both had to be replaced. Just be careful and take your time...There should also be drop brackets on the radiator, remove them first or radiator might get damaged...And if you don't have the origanal bolts you'll have to get shorter ones and hope they used the factory body isolater with lift blocks if not you'll have to get new ones...New factory ones or polyurathane, but poly's are to stiff in my opinion and the rubber ones are softer and won't transmit more road noise...good luck...

 

How should i remove the body lift if you dont do it one side at a time? front to back or somthing?

 

I wouldn't worry about doing bed side to side, no harm there, just put a thick sheet in between cab and bed so you don't hurt the paint...The cab and dog house are spot welded together so just in case of mabe rust make sure that is supported too. You'll have to think of a way to hold cab up after you take out bolts and 3 inch blocks and lower both sides at the same time as a buddy makes sure you don't kink the brake lines and bend them back a little at a time, use jacks, blocks. A come along under a huge tree branch, you your imagionation, you know what you have and don't have to do it...If you have a buddy that works at a garage see if you can do it after hours and use there lift to support cab and dog house...I just want you to be careful and not add anymore expense like I had too...Like new brake lines and a windshield...Good luck dude...

 

Read the installation instructions I posted. Same for removing as installing. Loosen bolts on one side, remove bolts on opposite side, lift the body, remove blocks, lower body, install shorter bolts. Repeat on other side and tighten.

 

Anyone know what length the stock body mount bolts are? I picked up a energy bushing kit and im taking the body lift off completely. The bed blocks are gone but i still need hardware to mount it back up but i had a question. on the bed side of the mounts the hole is pretty damn big. I guess they did they so you could line up everything, The guy that installed it before i bought it used these rubber pad things. Do i need any rubber bushings or anything on the bed or can i go metal on metal? I was thinking maybe pick up a sheet of dense rubber and cut out little sqaures.

 

Wait a sec, how's that work? Crack a windshield because the body was too crooked? I did a cab swap and has the thing sitting on its nose (rad. support) and the windows were fine.

 

I always do them one side then the other. Never had any trouble:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ft_HowTo.shtml

Much safer that way as you can leave the hardware in one side (loose) to act as a pivot while you work on the other side. Then leave that lifted (or lowered) side hardware loose and repeat on the other side. Doing front/rear is tricky as you need to lift the front-most end farther and that is where all the wires and hoses are. I generally try to find the approx. center of balance of the body then place a jack somewhat to the rear of that balance point in order to ensure that if one end will be raised higher it will be the rear of the body (less stuff back there to worry about). Of course the "best" way would be a shop lift with forks under both sides to raise the whole body straight up.

If your body/cab is so shot that lifting one side of it cracks the windshield, there are some serious issues with it!

 

I got it down today with no problems. I just got a few more things to change before i drive. I dunno how you crack a windshield, i just heard its possible and my windshield is fairly new.