Im currently in the middle of a sas on my 94 pickup. I am one of the few who has factory 4.88s so it feels great with my 33s I have on it now. I wanted to know what you think should I

A) Gear the front with 4.88s and run that

Or

B) Gear the front with 5.29s and get a new carrier for the rear and gear that too (you can?t regear the factory 4.88 carrier)

Either way im going with duel cases in the future, what?s you impute?

Thanks Steve

also i wont be going with 35s until after the cases

 

If I were you I'd just keep 4.88's in the rear...Wabbit ran 37's with 4.88's and claimed to have plenty of power on tap, so I'm guessing you'd be fine...

Can't forget about the added bonus of not having to find a completely different carrier and regearing

 

Yeah - you can't regear those thirds ... regearing's gonna be an expensive proposition for ya.

Note that all those trucks you're comparing to are manual tranny. (I assume you have an auto). You need to gear AT LEAST one step lower to accomodate the monster overdrive in the auto.

 

i know i said that, but im not going to go bigger that 35s untill its strickly a trail rig so i may just live with it being a little slugish on the road

 

I would re-gear to 5.29's if it was me. As far as the carrier thing goes its just "the carrier" the rest of the third is fine. All you would need is a Detroit soft locker,Tru Trac,ARB or any other full carrier locker and you third would be fine with run of the mill 5.29's. I'm sure you could find some one with a spare open V6 carrier laying around that you could probably get for free as they get tossed out when you go to a full locker like most do.

 

Do lockers and gears once or you are paying labor twice. Gear for the future cause you'll want bigger tires...ask me how I know. With an auto...5.29s definitely for the future.

 

Go with the 5.29s or even 5.71s with the auto/33s and get some good use out of that OD gear. You'll love them.

 

Were you running 33x10.5 or 33x12.5?

 

mt goat...i have heard some really bad things about the 5.71's...just curious to know if you know something I don't?

oh yeah...5.29's seem to be the real popular choice. my buddy ran 37's on his 22r with an auto and it worked out real nice.

Jon

 

May be

Check this out:http://www.gearinstalls.com/410suck.htm

 

I would love to do a 3-D finite element analysis of a 4.10 R&P vs. a 5.71 R&P, specifically looking at stresses and deflections in the sets with a certain moment applied to the pinion shaft. It would take quite a bit of advanced friction coupling, and a pretty dense mesh, but I'm confident I could do it.

Problem is, where can I find a native 3-D model of a ring and pinion set?

 

AWESOME!!! Thanks, I had always wondered why people said that...appreciate the tech info.

Later,

Jon

 

Can't you just draw one up on Pro-e?

 

I dunno, there's a lot of advance design put into those helical gears, and I don't have a particurally good understanding of what goes into them. Heck, the manufacturers don't even put out engineering drawings of them (for the public to look at anyway)... I can think of how I would draw the ring gear, but the pinion would be a PITA.

Maybe I should call up a gear maufacturer like Yukon and ask nicely for an IGES file...

 

I think it's a no brainer anyway, isn't it? I mean the thicker metal is going to show-up on the FEA run as less stress and deflection, right?

 

same question only changed a little

now i need the gears for my 86 4 runner (22re 5spd)

i have one 4.88 diff and im thinking of going with 4.88s and 37in MT/Rs again

or i have someone who wants my 4.88 diff for 225$ and that money will go twords 5.29s